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Strange Big Block Starter Problem

1753 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  NcChopper
Guys, hoping someone can help me...I have a 2000 Big Block with a strange electrical problem:

When I go to start the bike, the starter drags the voltmeter down and the bike barely cranks. Sometimes, the starter gear doesn't engage all the way, so I get a raspy gear sound.

I replaced the starter (brand new PowerMaster) and the battery with a new 530 CCA unit: no luck, same problem!?! Then, I tried something...I hit the "Engine Off" handlebar switch and cranked it and it cranks just fine: volts stay up, no gear noise, no lugging down, etc. Of course, it doesn't start...

I assume this has to be electrical, but why would enabling the power to the distributor create such a problem? As best I can tell, that is all the "Engine Off" switch does in the circuit.

My workaround is to crank the bike with the Engine Off switch thrown and while cranking it, push the switch back to run: that works fine, it starts with no hesitation, but it's a hassle and obviously shouldn't be required.

Any/all ideas or troubleshooting tips will be appreciated!

Thanks and regards,
Tracy
[email protected]
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Tracy,
Check for warm connections at your battery, starter lugs etc. It almost sounds as if you have a bad wire or connection that is not allowing it to carry the proper amperage due to resistance or undersized wires. I would expect more of a connection problem. Try a multimeter at the starter connections and see if the voltage drops.
Glenn
Tracy_Iverson said:
Guys, hoping someone can help me...I have a 2000 Big Block with a strange electrical problem:

When I go to start the bike, the starter drags the voltmeter down and the bike barely cranks. Sometimes, the starter gear doesn't engage all the way, so I get a raspy gear sound.

I replaced the starter (brand new PowerMaster) and the battery with a new 530 CCA unit: no luck, same problem!?! Then, I tried something...I hit the "Engine Off" handlebar switch and cranked it and it cranks just fine: volts stay up, no gear noise, no lugging down, etc. Of course, it doesn't start...

I assume this has to be electrical, but why would enabling the power to the distributor create such a problem? As best I can tell, that is all the "Engine Off" switch does in the circuit.

My workaround is to crank the bike with the Engine Off switch thrown and while cranking it, push the switch back to run: that works fine, it starts with no hesitation, but it's a hassle and obviously shouldn't be required.

Any/all ideas or troubleshooting tips will be appreciated!

Thanks and regards,
Tracy
[email protected]

I am not sure but we had a real crazy problem like this when the engine was hot. Fought it for a long time by changing starter, Batt and everything in between. Turned out to be a bad vacuum line to the vacuum advance. What was happening was the line would collapse and keep the vacuum advance fully advanced. We were trying to start the engine with 40 plus degrees advance so it was a bear. I'm almost sure that this is not your problem but to make sure disconnect the vacuum line to the dist advance.

Adrian
How to Adjust Timing on a Big Block?

I called the factory about my starting problem...they say the timing is probably advanced too far making the motor resist the starter. Does anyone know how to set the timing on a Big Block and what it should be? I've got the Davis Unified Ignition with mechanical only no vacuum advance.

Thanks,
Tracy
Tracy,

I had the same problem when I first got my 502. I replaced the starter within a week of gettign it home thinknig that was my problem (rookie). turns out it was the timing. Too far advanced and it is real tough to get the thing started. Almost sounds like a drained battery when ya try to start it.

I've got my timing at 12 deg initial but I am running the crane vacuum advance. Roger at Mountain Boss Hoss said they time their 502s at 14-15 deg. He thought mine would run hot at 12 but it doesn't seem to run any hotter that anybody elses.

Chris
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