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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 bb and replacing the rear wheel with a 18" does anyone have timkin bear and seal numbers or what does everyone replace the rear bearing with.
 

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Wychop,
If you do not get the answer here, you can always goto:
http://www.bosshoss.com
Click "Parts", punch in your VIN number and look for the BH part number and order it, or call your nearest dealer. They will be able to help you.
In previous posts, I have stated that everytime you change your tires, you should at least have your bearings repacked!

Dave in Columbus, Ohio
 

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I've got my bearing in my hand here. The belt side looks like it's been wet so I'm changing both and will every time I need a tire. Bearings are like oil, cheap preventative maintenance.

Bower Japan-D EN 2580

Sorry the seal has no number and I didn't retain the dimensions when I ordered the new ones, which will be in tomorrow.
 

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If I were you , I would replace those jap bearings with Timken Bearings .

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
REAR HUB BEARING

I got the part numbers today and cross them to Timken bearing today thanks alot.
 

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Re: REAR HUB BEARING

WYCHOP said:
I got the part numbers today and cross them to Timken bearing today thanks alot.
Is this a sealed bearing and what is the part number? I ordered new 05 bearings which are sealed and I am sure having a hard time finding new ones W/O going thro the factory.

Thanks

Adrian
 

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What sort of bearing is the sealed one? Is it a thrust bearing? I ask because I'm having a hard time visualising anything but a tapered bearing in there. Also, if it is a thrust bearing, theoretically the 15lbs torque for axle preload on the bearings wouldn't be so critical.

Or is it a different setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
REAR HUB BEARING

The sealed bearing is just a replacement for the tapered bearings. You do not have to grease them. As far as the 15 lbs preload you still have to tourqe your axle nuts nothing has changed. It is just a sealed bearing verses a tapered they are the same with the exception one you grease one you don't. Personal preference.
 

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So in that case is the race part of the bearing? ie: the old race must be removed and the whole bearing assembly is inserted?
 

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Re: REAR HUB BEARING

WYCHOP said:
The sealed bearing is just a replacement for the tapered bearings. You do not have to grease them. As far as the 15 lbs preload you still have to tourqe your axle nuts nothing has changed. It is just a sealed bearing verses a tapered they are the same with the exception one you grease one you don't. Personal preference.

The 05 bearings are a real bear to change due to the spacer inside between bearings. They are sealed and no way to lube them. I had to weld to the inside race and drive out that side and then knock the other side. It is not like the older ones and many times more difficult to deal with. The new Boss that I have apart had at least 40 foot pounds on the axle so I guess Boss Hoss is doing something new. I ordered new bearings and they are here. I will go over tomorrow and pick them up and post the numbers.
I had to remove the bearings because I had the hub chromed, also the pulley. I don't think you can get the bearings out with destroying them or at least I couldn't. I did work on an 04 and the bearings did not have a shoulder inside the hub to seat the bearing on either side but did have a spacer between them. That was weird because it is easy to place the bearings anywhere and get the rear wheel off center, In fact I did just that and had to pull the wheel off a second time to get the bearings in the right place. Those bearings were also sealed but I could drive them out with out any problem.

Adrian
 

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I just put mine back together today with the new Timkins. There's a certain satisfaction in gobbing the EP grease in there so you know there's lots of it.
 

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Jack,
They are Tim 2580.
Seals are CBS 48x70x10 Metric

The fellow measured the seals with a caliper so the measurements are slightly different than V-man below. Mine did fit as will his too I'm sure. My hub is a stock 03.

stu
 

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Jack ,

Check out Wags help section and my parts list . there are all the part numbers for bearings , races and seals unless you are looking for the sealed type .

Jack
 

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Re: Timlins

HAWK88 said:
Stu;

Got a number for those Timkins?

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
Jack

Not sure yours will be the same as mine (03) :roll: I have mine out now, new tire arriving today and figured I would replace the bearings as "preventative maintenance" after seeing a couple guys have failures.

Bearing Timken 2580

Seal TC 47 70 10 0211C 65 (I'm not sure what numbers are relevent to size)

I am headed out this AM to get new ones, caan post exact number needed for seal when I get back ... if you want.
 

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Bearings

Jack;

Thanks, I had forgotten your list tucked @ the bottom of Wag's site. Rick had sent me a list as well, and it was "filed" away. My bike is a 97 with 02 wheels, so that is probably the correct numbers for me.

If I understand this correct, I put new Timken bearings and INNER race in the old outer race? I'd rather avoid having to weld and pound or is that just necessary if the bearing has failed?

Thanks, probably Bone Head questions, but hey, I'm a BoneHead!

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
 

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crazymf said:
V-Man,
I thought I've seen you back and forth on a car tire? What did you decide to put on in the end?
stu
Stu

I wasn't really "back and forth", it was more like trying to find a car tire where fit and function would both be good. I had a Michelen PS2 265/35/18 delivered BUT after hearing responses from others my wife sent it back :oops: :cry: It was probably for the best, this tire was FLAT, HUGE and plain NASTY (for a bike)! I decided to be a little conservative this time around :wink: ... I have a Bridgestone Potenza RE750 being delivered today. I downsized to a 245/40/WR18 - little more sidewall ratio so it should handle the turns a little better in theory anyway.

I should have tire mated to wheel today but having problems finding the correct dust cover(s). When I have it mounted to the bike, I'll post a pic!

Don
 

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Jack ,

The correct thing to do would be to replace both the inner race and bearing because they are a matched set especially if the old bearings are pitted or worn . If they are in good shape , just repack them and check them again in about 6 months . Of course always install new seal afthr repacking the bearings .

Jack
 
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