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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It is hard to believe, but I actually have a question about overheating in stopped traffic. This last weekend it was in the high 70's, may have actually been 80. It just lasted one day and then it got cooler and rainy again. I am running my carbs lean and the thermostat at 180 so I can try to increase my mpg a little for a big upcoming run. I will share more on that later.

I actually got into a traffic jam. Imagine that in Houston. I was stopped for probably 15 mins or so. The temp ran up around 200 degrees. I finally passed the traffic jam, and it started cooling right off. I got up on a big bridge where the air was blowing nicely off the water (cool), and looked down and the temp was rising. It actually did this thing where it slowly went up to 200 d and then back down to slightly below 180 (where it normally stays). It did not seem to be related to engine speed. I have a condensate recovery system and it has been working well, I think. Could this be some indication that maybe my water pump is acting up. The radiator was cleaned out :capwin: last fall. I will check my levels before I take off again to make sure that they are topped off, but she seems to find a level where she likes to stay and then works great, as long as there isn't a traffic jamb. I even let the water pump run for a couple of minutes after shutting her down to cool her down below 160 to 150. I seem to remember a similiar deal like this last year in the spring. Any ideas.
Regards,
Crazy Bill "Critter" Crittenden
Seabrook, Texas
 

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Critter,

The only time I had this problem was when my fuse was loose in the fuse block and my fan would stop. I'd get a spike in temps real quick in traffic. If your fan stops long enoug it WILL overheat and I mean peg the needle. When I noticed my fan wasn't running it was 210 and climbing on the smallblock. I was wearing a full face that day and it was hard to hear the fam over the bike and the other vehicles.

200 degrees won't hurt a thing but is probably hotter than you like and from all that I have to assume it's a small block. My 502 stays around 210 or so in traffic.

Chris
 

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Overheating

Bill;

I didn't have an overheating problem, per say, but similar indications when I had been on the interstate (single speed clutch Boss), than got off to face a long red light.

My fan switch kicks on just below 200, and off just below 180ish. It also "spit" coolent out after it was shut off hot. Got tired of the "seeking it's on level" stuff and got a REALLY NICE OverFlow Cannister from Barry in Canada.

That solved the spitting problem, and I feel enhances the cooling, because there is no AIR (EULAGE) in the system now. Even on the Great Friday Mass Boss ride @ Daytona, no problems. This ride included LOTS of really slow stuff (slipping the clutch in my case).

Barry goes by CanuckHoss on this site, and is a hoot to deal with. Others may have similar overflow cannisters, but I know Barry's works well, and FITS! Here's his web site.
http://www.bosshossv8motorcycles.com/

Hope this is helpful.

Ride Safe!

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
 

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Boss Hoss of Stamford sells a very neat and short overflow cannister in chrome for about $125. Very heavy billet clamps that fit the crash bars perfectly. Before the install the bike would spit a lot every time I stopped and NEVER found it's own level which I was hoping for. Now stays bone dry. Everyone should have one of these.
One thing I had to do was drill a very small vent hole (1/16") in the top because the overflow hose was such an airtight fit in the grommet at the top of the cannister that the coolant would leak past the radiator cap because of the back pressure.
By the way, 210 and even 220 won't hurt a thing and I've been told by a very experienced hotrod builder who uses 350 small blocks all the time that he doesn't even think about a problem until well over 230.......Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Question About OverHeating

Thanks for the tips. I will check the fuse and my temp sensor. I did have a problem with the sensor when I installed the 180 degree one. I did not get it on properly and it got a little hot down at Galveston. I am running the condensate canister that alot of folks run on stock cars. It is about 15 inches long. I think it is working, but something is off a little. Appreciate the advice.
Regards,
Bill "Critter" Crittenden
 

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Bill...I think you are confusing the temp sender with the 180 degree fan switch. They are two different items. If it's the fan switch, that's an easy diagnosis. Just start the bike and let it idle and see when the fan kicks in. If the fan doesn't turn on when it should it's the fan switch. If it does...it's the sender.
The fuse is really something to look at and even if the fuse is OK, the fuse receptacle may be burned. Look at the fuse panel wiring diagram and see which fuse is handling the fan. Put some dielelectric grease on the prongs of the fuse and retry. I never put a fuse in without it anymore since the time I was dead on the road with corroded and burned fuse receptacles for my fuel pump.. 15,000 miles after I started to do this and have never had a fuse failure since......Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Zen, Got you, I understand your suggestion and will take your advice. I will check out all of my fuses and put di-elec grease on them. I think that is a good idea, especially around the salt water we have around here. I will be doing that at 0300 in the morning CST, just prior to rollout and take off for the wonders of central Texas. Thanks again for all of the advice.
Regards,
Bill "Critter" Crittenden
Seabrook, Texas
 

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Speaking of overflow canisters, some here may not have yet heard about Siron's innovative overflow canister. They have turned the right crash bar into the overflow canister and it looks really clean. The bottom of the bar has a plug welded into it and the other necessary mods are done as well.

Does anyone here have this set up and if so can you give some feedback on how it is doing?

Call Siron at 309-827-7611 for more info or it may be listed on their web site (not sure if it's on there or not) www.boss-hoss.com.

Bill
 

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I'm assuming they have a thermostat? Oscillating temps are sometimes an indication that the thermostat is beginning to malfunction.
 

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Bill Taylor said:
Speaking of overflow canisters, some here may not have yet heard about Siron's innovative overflow canister. They have turned the right crash bar into the overflow canister and it looks really clean. The bottom of the bar has a plug welded into it and the other necessary mods are done as well.

Does anyone here have this set up and if so can you give some feedback on how it is doing?

Call Siron at 309-827-7611 for more info or it may be listed on their web site (not sure if it's on there or not) www.boss-hoss.com.

Bill

I woild expect the overflow "crash bar" to be full of very brown fluid from rust. Heat, Water and Steel equals rust. Have you ever looked at the inside of a crash bar-they already have a coating of rust when they are new. Just keep this in mind before you transfer this fluid into your engine. Cool idea but not really a good idea.
 

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I was going to do this when I first got my bike but I wasn't sure if my crashbar would leak or not so I decided to wait till I painted the frame. Oxygen is what causes rust and antifreeze has rust inhibitors in it so I think it would work just fine. I would think the crashbar was just as clean as the cast block. It's not a new idea, just a pretty slick one IMHO. ;)
 

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LaMonsterV8 said:
I was going to do this when I first got my bike but I wasn't sure if my crashbar would leak or not so I decided to wait till I painted the frame. Oxygen is what causes rust and antifreeze has rust inhibitors in it so I think it would work just fine. I would think the crashbar was just as clean as the cast block. It's not a new idea, just a pretty slick one IMHO. ;)

I agree that conceptually this would not be a bad idea but one of the big differences is the composition of the steel in the crash bar vs. the block coupled with the fact that the block is almost always full meaning no oxygen present to cause rust for the most part. Talked to my engine builder as well as the metallurgy engineers at work who agreed. This is one reason that you will never see a metal overflow tank on a new car for example (other reasons exist as well such as weight and cost). I did a little research on this and would like to see some pictures of the inside of one of the crash bar that was used as an overflow after about a year. This idea was used by HD riders who use the bar as part of the oil cooling system who has some of the aforementioned issues. I have seen those with my own 2 eyes.
 

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Crazymf ( Stu ),

The bikes do not have factory installed thermostats. But up in our neck of the woods it's a good idea to install one because when it's cold out you just can't even get it to warm up.

I put a 180 in my 04 SB. You will have to drill four 1/4 inch holes in it first. I tried it out without holes and went for about a 5 mile ride on a 40F day. The temp went quickly to 200F and I wasn't even pushing it. I assume that the restriction of even the open thermostat in the block is too much based on the pressure and volume that the stock electric water pump provides. With the holes in it, it allows more flow and the engine runs cooler.

Yesterday I was out and it was about 50F outside. On the open highway the warmest it got was about 150F. That's about the best set up you'll get since our temps vary so much up here.

On a hot day the thermostat opens at 180 and stays pretty much at 180 all day, maybe 190 if you're working it hard. When the fan kicks in at 192 it will maintain about 185.
 
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