V8 Bike Riders Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,598 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured I'd do a good thing at the time I put my new rear tire on and changed my old fixed Wildwood caliper bracket to the new "floating" type. The bracket moves easily but the disc gets so hot it sizzles if you spit on it.
I checked the pucks and all are moving but the caliper wants to sit a little off center in the rear (in other words the disc no longer rides in the center of the caliper as it did before)
Any ideas?....Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
Joe, when I change out pads on the rear, I always center the caliper up with the rotor before I put the pads on. I make sure the rotor is running in the center of the caliper by placing a washer (or two) between the floating bracket and the caliper if it needs it. Sometimes I have noticed that the front rides a little different than the rear of the caliper, and it may only need a washer on one bolt. Once I get the caliper centered on the rotor when it is tightened down, I remove the caliper and put on the pads. This has always worked for me, and kept them centered. YOu have probably did this already, but I thought I would throw in my $.02 worth...Have a great Memorial Day! :)
(And make sure the bar brace with the "ball" ends are loose and free to turn on both ends). When I changed mine out a couple weeks ago, I worked on it for almost an hour, freeing up the ends so they would rotate freely. I found out that if they aren't free, the caliper is forced sideways on the rotor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,598 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Mike...the problem is kinda the opposite The rotor is running too close to the disc in the rear so a shim would worsen it. I can, however shim the front part to get the distances the same front and rear ends of the caliper :? and that would get the pads parallel to the rotor. That maybe the problem that the caliper is riding "cocked" and the pads dragging at an angle. I just felt there was enough "slop" in the floating bracket to allow the caliper to center itself but maybe not. Thanks, Mike....Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,598 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike....I put a washer in front between the caliper and the bracket between the front ear of the caliper and the bracket so that the rotor is now pretty much in the middle of the caliper slot or close both front and rear.
The thing about this I just don't get is that the bracket floats and so can be moved from side to side easily without the pads in so how does lining up a moving caliper do the trick? What I'm saying is that with the pads out you can manually twist and move the bracket anywhere you want to. The stabilizer arm rotates freely and always has. Seems to me that the whole idea of a floating bracket was to eliminate the need to line things up because applying the brakes should allow the caliper to move to where it should.....Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
rear brakes

joe I am in the same boat.. I found out if you put two large screw drivers between the mounting bracket and the roror then tighen up the two 3/8 allen bolts on top of your axle adjuster then put on your radius rod and adjust to lenght. the flat washers will fine tune to get the rotor run in the center,,, I have 3/8 ss washers that are thiner than USS washers, if need it. good luck gizmo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
The trick is to push on the caliper until it collapses the pistons evenly and then when you apply the brake it will center itself up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
Joe, the way I do it is I make sure all 4 of the pistons are fully retracted, then I make sure the top of the floating bracket is against the swingarm. You know how it kinda "flops" when the caliper is not attached. I take a small screwdriver, and make sure it is fully against the swingarm, and rotating freely, then I make sure and note how the caliper is centered on the rotor, noting the distance from side to side in the front and rear. I think Lamont is right on...you have to make sure when the brakes are applied, all 4 pistons come out evenly and compress the pads evenly across all 4 pistons. I know on the '97 I had, I had to remove the pistons, and do like is stated here on the forum. It seems as if one was sticking, not allowing the caliper to center exactly right. After removing the piston, I sanded it with 1500 - 2000 grit paper, to remove the "burnished" discoloration. Then cleaned with brake cleaner and reassembled. This solved the "sideways running pad" problem, and increased the braking capability greatly! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,598 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mike...before I changed to the floating bracket I reconditioned the caliper by sanding the pucks and bores with 2000 grit paper and all pistons were working fine. At that time with the old fixed bracket all was well. If I can't get the floating bracket to work properly I'll go back to the fixed bracket but the floating one just logically seems to make more sense. I just ordered a new set of pads and am hoping they will center up and get rid of my dragging problem.....Joe
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top