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Nitrous Question? (Elliot?)

2752 Views 9 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Glenn B
First off I want to thank you for letting me ride your V8 Chopper :D that was quite the rush and it one of the coolest choppers out there, you can keep all that OCC crap. ;)

After riding your bike with the nitrous I am now hooked :twisted: but I have some questions. Everyone I talk to says you have to be wide open throttle to hit the button but I believe you an Gary said it wasn't necessary. I'm pretty sure I wasn't WOT when I hit the button but I was rolling on the throttle as I hit the button. I know you guys play with this stuff all the time and I would like to get an education from you as I'm sure there are a lot of folks here that would like to hear from the guys who like to play with this addicting brew. :twisted:

Right now I am looking into the Nitrous Express Main Line setup for 400 bucks.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/mainline/ ... er.psd.pdf

Is there another setup I should be looking at?

Thanks again Bro for trusting me with your baby. ;)
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Hi Lamont,
I got addicted too. That is some fun stuff ! I bought the Sniper system from Summit and added NB to the part number so it would come without a 10 lb bottle. I think it was $369. Thats a good deal for $399 since you can sell that bottle and get a smaller one ( or two as it will eventually turn out).
I only use it at 2900 rpms and up, and the switch has to be made on the secondaries ( along with the horn button). I have the switch set so the secondaries have to be all but fully open.
I put the 100 jets in for a few weeks and then the 125's. They really woke it up! Never tried the 150's since I was affraid to tell my wife that I melted a stock piston.
I have forged pistons now for the new 408 , but I decided to start with the 100's again. Besides , I have to take it easy on it for a while. :wink:
I found a place with polished 2 1/2lb bottles at a good price ( $189 I think), but I have to look for the site.
have fun ! Jeff
You will want to keep the 10 lb bottle so you can fill your smaller ones from it. Marv told me to put my small bottle in the freezer for a few hours then you can fill it with the 10 pound one. It works like a champ. I would look at the system to get the 3/8" plate like Edelbrock makes. I don't know how thick the plate is with this one but you need it as thin as you can get it.


I don't have the micro switch on my linkage, so mine will light anytime I arm the computer and hit the horn :lol: I only use mine above 3000 rpm and with WOT.......I run the 125hp jets and according to the Chevy boys the ZZ4 will never have an issue out of the box so long as you stay at about 500 to 525 hp on the stock components. They say when you go above that consistantly there needs to be some updating internally.

I really like the computer, you don't have to pay so much attention when you hit the button if you're really trying to toast someone.......it just feeds in the selected amount and ramps to 100% over a time period. But if you set it @ 0 delay @ 100% the tire goes nuts at anythong below 60 to 65 8)

Best performance for the money you can buy. Plus you loose no reliability or mileage until you hit the button :wink:

I also would like to take this on as a winter project. 2 questions:

1) Doesn't someone make a nitrous system where the spray bars are positioned above the carb and under the air cleaner somehow? Does anyone have experience wth this? I continue to hear about having to "notch" the frame for the "plate" system that raises the carb up roughly a quarter of an inch. I don't like the sound of that at all.

2) The tire (an Avon 230 for now) will already break free at 40-50 MPH. Even if I waited until I hit 50 MPH (in 1st gear) to hit the nitrous, I would be at the bike's shift point in about 2 seconds. I'm surely not going to hold full throttle and nitrous through a shift from first to second. So, I'm assuming the nitrous is mainly for bragging rights, or are some of you shifting into 2nd around 50-70 MPH, then hitting the nitrous?

Heck, I mainly just like the look of the bottles hanging off the bike anyway!


Bill, My plate is 1/2" thick. I used a ball peen hammer to put a dent on the inside of the frame so the linkage cleared. It took a while since you have to be careful, but it wasn't hard. It didn't need that much of a dent, but the frame tubing is tough to persuade.
I freeze my bottle too. And I put it in ice on the ride to the guys house. When he fills it , he doesn't need to turn the transfer pump on. he charges $4 a lb. Jeff

I have had the same thoughts as you about nitrous on a 502. I don't see where it would be all that practical but like you said, the bottles look really cool.

Hi Lamont,

Sorry it took so long to reply. Been at the track a bunch as well as offshore fishing the last 2 days. Was really good seeing you as well and glad you enjoyed riding the chopper and playing with the nitrous. Thanks for the nice remarks.

Lots of things to talk about with nitrous. Someone (I believe Jeff) mentioned the Sniper system. That's what I'm using. Good value and enough (up to 150 hp) for the bikes. I wish it had the jet setup in the line by the solenoids like the CompuCar system. Easier to change jets that way vs at the plate. Easier on the chopper cause of the open access and lots of room. Don't have to mess with moving the tank as on the Hoss but once you settle on the right jetting combo, you shouldn't have to mess with it.

Speaking of jets, Gary and I are at 100 horse squirts. The choppers have the hyperteutectic pistons unfortunately and anything over 140 horse is going to crap them out. Have seen quite a few non forged pistons go to crap from too much nitrous. In our case, the 100 horse is just right. We're not into smoke shows these days but rather best times at the track and the balance of gearing, weight and nitrous application are very important. We kill the notrous bigblocks because they're using a 150 or 175 horse shot and the tire goes up in smoke with little linear acceleration. Bottom line here is if you have a need to go with more than a 125 horse squirt, you need forged pistons. The other bottom line is too much of a good thing can be too much. Speed/time....not tire smoke, at least for me. A single rear tire can only accommodate so much hp. Trikes, a different story.

Adrian's bottle comment is exactly what I do. Sniper system came with a 10 lb bottle that is my fill bottle. I bought two polished 2 lb bottles, Gary uses a single 2 1/2 lb. They are identical in diameter but different in height. Freeze the polished 2 pounders, but your big bottle in front of anything that will warm it a bit, and whooosh...you're filled. Be sure to weigh them as we have often overfilled blowing the safety when guessing volume. Thank goodness for paintball gun spares.

On a similar subject, you may have some problems in your neck of the woods as the colder temps mean lower pressure. Unless you have 900 lbs or better, you aren't going to get the bang you want. Sometimes it degrades performance if the pressure is too low as you're getting a big addt'l gas squirt but not the right volume of nitrous. On the trike I used bottle warmers (fantastic) and would heat it to 1,100 lbs +. The more pressure, the bigger the jolt. Under 800 lbs it's a total waste.

On the Edelbrock and NOS systems, those small solenoids are only good to 175 horse. If you want bigger jetting, you need to go to the bigger solenoids. There is apparently a lot of discussion on single plane vs dual plane intakes and max nitrous hp but I've seen a number of the local guys using up to 250 hp on a stock Boss intake.

On the solenoid issue, I know a lot of guys use the horn button as their trigger. It's a cheap ass switch and I've seen some spark at night and know for a fact it's not the best method for your trigger. Some solenoids (Compucar) are very sensitive as far as electric and without a relay, the solenoids are apt to be intermittent or not fully open. Careful here. I personally recommend a high quality switch for your trigger.

Be very sure when you're doing the plumbing that you include a filter on the gas side, and watch the teflon taped getting anywhere near the fitting ends. Nitrous flow with gas restriction = puked motor.

We run seperate fuel pumps devoted to the nitrous system. Again, part of the above equation. I also like seeing a fuel pressure gauge.

We do not use a micro switch where you have to be at WOT. Tom Breedlove is one to talk to here. What he can do with his bigblock and the real quick squirt while cruising Main Street is incredible. That bigblock revs faster than any smallblock during his fast gun-ups.

I'm sticking with the real clean, simple look on the chopper. I don't have the nitrous controller (computer) and for the fun stuff of jucing it on the street don't feel the need for one. For anyone serious though and especially for the track, they're awesome. If you have room, love gadgets, have the extra bucks, and want the very best performance with your nitrous system, controllers are the answer.

I couldn't run at the track Friday night as my headers are off being modified and I haven't chucked my damn Demon and put the new Holley on yet. Gary had major carb problems and a bad fuel pump but in spite of those woes, his first run was a 6.48 @ 118 mph. We feel certain that once we get rid of the Demons, run the new EK530 chains, and a few other minor tweaks, we'll be running much lower 6's.

Again, great seeing you in Daytona and hope you get your nitrous system soon. It's definitely "you" Lamont. Best regards,

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I found that place that has the bottles I was looking for. www.schnitzracing.com . They have other bottles and nos parts/kits also.
Elliot made a good point about the horn button. All it should be used for is pulling in a relay. The relay contacts can handle the current draw of the solenoids or the horns . And , same here, as soon as the bottle pressure gets to 900 , its not much of a hit, but your friends can still smell it behind you !
If I can add my 2 cents here. I am running the Schnitz progressive controller. If you decide you want to go with any controller you should put the solonoids on a 30 amp relay. They each draw (if I remember correctly) approx. 8 amps. I am using a WOT switch wired to the side of my carb. Because I use the bike for traveling and it does get rained on, I used a waterproof WOT microswitch. Also with speaking with the tech guys at Schnitz, they told me the controller is water resistant and will tolerate water as long as it is not a pressure stream. It has held up and I have had more than my share of riding in the rain. I have the 150 HP jets and can dial in from 30-150 HP. If you go with a progressive system you should plum 2 NOS solonoids in series. The 1st is a safety one and opens when you hit WOT and trip the 30 amp relay, the second one is grounded to the controller along with the gas solonoid and will "telegraph" till you hit 100 %. This telegraphing causes premature wear of the seals and by having the extra safty solonoid plumbed in line for the NOS prevents NOS from bleeding through the solonoid and into your engine. New fuel pump is a must and like the others said Fuel guage is a real good idea. BTW thanks also Elliot for entrusting me also with your rig. That was the shortest Biketoberfest that I ever had. Left that evening to bring the trailer truck back home.
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