HEI / cap, rotor, coil...

HEI Alternative

Loaf,

I know this is an area of personal preference and there is no "right" answer. However, my personal favorite is the MSD replacement kit. It fits right in the standard HEI distributor housing and allows you to put in a standard coil if yours fails. You also could put your original module back in if you were on the road and had a failure.

MSD has a "redesigned" MSD HEI ignition module, coil and cap. You might want to check it out.

www.msdignition.com

Cap 84111
Rotor 84101
Coil 8225
Module 83645

You can buy all the parts as a kit #8502. The previous kit was #8501.

This assembly provides a hotter spark and no misfires up to 9,000 rpm. A considerable improvement over the stock stuff.

Hi Bryan,
yes, you are right regarding anti seize to the threads and the slider blocks. I always do that when I take my rear wheel out. Oh, and yes, I almost lost a bolt this season, cause I forgot to tighten the left bolt after I adjusted the belt tension.
But it's not the rust inside the swing arm - it's the rust in the socket head bolt's that I don't wanna look at any more. I would like to have them in SS. But a friend from CO (Mike Koehn) *kiss, kiss* :lol: gave me a nice address, where I can get them probably. I'll polish the heads, then they'll fit perfectly to the polished cones and the
chrome of the swing arm. I also changed all those other rusty bolts at my bike, including the bolts of the tranny housing to stainless steel- the new 2 speeds have zinc plated bolts, but my single speed had ugly, black/rusty ordinary steel bolts all aroud the tranny covers. I hope the SS bolts will withstand the forces, because SS will not corrode, but it is not as strong as normal steel - time will tell.

Peter,
I think you talked about the slider blocks - not the bolts. Great to hear that you are back from Spain. I'll call you the next days, pal. There are ton's of news!

Loaf

Damn Joe, you expect me to remember that at my advanced age?? Heehee

Try this from the K&N site.



Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.


A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power

Example: A 350 CID Chevy engine with a horsepower peak at 5,500 rpm.


If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length. If you are sizing a round filter, use the following formula to determine the height of the filter.


A = effective filtering area
H = height
D = outside diameter of the filter
3.14 = pi
0.75 = the rubber end caps

Try the K&N site as the formula's wouldn't copy correctly.


Geez

Hmm....Joe's calculator says we need at least 587 CFM (for a SB). Somewhere in the past I read in one of the V8 boards that the stock paper filter flows only 230 CFM....my one a little less, because it's 5 years old, dirty, and has 10000 miles on it, too. (shame on me)

Carb Mike posted on the BHRA site the following K&N #'s and flow rates:

"All filters are 7"O.D. and 5.187I.D.
---------Hieght---CFM
E-3360---2.00---260.69
E-2540---2.187--285.48
E-2490---2.375--310.42
E-2500---2.562--335.21
E-2510---2.812--368.37
E-3380---3.00---393.29
E-2550---3.125--409.87
E-2520---3.187--418.09
E-3390---3.75---492.75
9" Extream Flow Top # 66-0901

I ordered the E-2500, which flows 335 CFM. It has a filter area of
56 square inch. That means one square inch of K&N filter area flows 6 CFM.
The 7" Extream Flow Top has a filter area of 38 square inch, and therefore it should flow ~ 230 CFM. Altogether approximately 565 CFM....

Like you already said, Joe - still not optimal, but sounds MUCH better to me than the poor specs of the the stock paper unit...!
I can't wait to install it!

Loaf

Joe,
I'm working at a machine shop, and I already thought about the best way to cut the lip off. Did you had a chance to see how the guy at the machine shop removed the 2"? I think it's not possible to make that (safe) on a lathe, but we have a very strong band grinder- this seems to me the safest way to make a 9" top to a 7" top. And it would't take much time, either.

Oh, and many thanks for the southcoaststainless link. I noticed they sell all bolts in show-polished finish, too. I use to polish my SS bolts in my garage. I've got a small machine for that. But who ever did that knows about the dirt, loud noises, and how hard it is to polish stainless. This address is like gold! I put it to my favorites.

I'll get the swing arm bolts in the next couple of weeks. They are already on the way to Germany. Mike Koehn (ID: V8BossHoss) bought them for me in Denver, and sent them to Germany 3 days ago. What a nice guy he is......Mike, I love you for doing this!
:capwin:

Man- what would I do without these V8 boards, and all you good, helpful, and knowledgeable (sp?) friends. I really don't know...

Oh, and @ Jack - how did you cut off the 2" from your Extream top? And I remember you said you tried to mount your Carter fuel pump between the dist and the carb - did it fit? I would like to mount my pump at the same place.

....but I think I'll open a new topic for this question this evening. I've got some more fuel system related questions anyways. See ya' later...

Loaf