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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Forum search didn't cover my issues and I thought I'd see if anyone was around with harmonic balancer experience.

My SB has a serpentine belt balancer. I seem to have a protective cap or cover in the centre covering the main balancer bolt. This cap is siezed - I'm working on it and I'll get it out somehow - any tips gratefully received.

I need to get the balancer off to replace the timing cover as there is a leak, I believe it's the balancer seal set into the timing over. I see the timing cover is a once use only plastic cover too! I beleive that this cover is used on Mercruiser 5.7L engines so it's off to the marine store.

Questions:
Any tips on removing/replacing the balancer?
Do I need to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off and on like the metal ones?
I guess I need RTV for a plastic cover too?

Thanks in anticipation
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks Steve, yep, been a wierd 2 years but we'll have to hook up this summer. I have tried a little clockwise but it felt the same - no hint of movement, I'll try again. I have the rad off so can hold the balancer steady. Good idea for the holding tool. I see your balancer has the same 'cap'.
I've just been out to the garage and tried the left-hand thread theory but it's exactly the same and I'm at the point of dmaging the allan socket in the cap. I might need to call in the Cavalry.

Take care and ping me re your mods.
 

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Might be worth trying a bit of heat, there may also be Threadlock on the Allen bolt... then see if one of the lads can confirm the thread direction before really thumping it!
I imaging the Balancer wheel is keyed (woodruff type), if not, probably good idea to put it on TDC before removing. Might need a Puller the draw it off the crankshaft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Might be worth trying a bit of heat, there may also be Threadlock on the Allen bolt... then see if one of the lads can confirm the thread direction before really thumping it!
I imaging the Balancer wheel is keyed (woodruff type), if not, probably good idea to put it on TDC before removing. Might need a Puller the draw it off the crankshaft?
Thanks Steve, I guess it is thread-locked, I've tried a propane torch but only tentatively, I have emailed BHC in Dyersberg so will wait for confirmation on thread direction. I agree it should have a woodruff and I have a three bolt puller ready. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Steve, I guess it is thread-locked, I've tried a propane torch but only tentatively, I have emailed BHC in Dyersberg so will wait for confirmation on thread direction. I agree it should have a woodruff and I have a three bolt puller ready. I'll keep you posted.
Update: Dyersberg confirms standard thread direction and that they have had the same problem, their solution is to weld a big nut onto the cap and off it comes. I've got a welder coming to do just that. Hopefully that will be that as I will use the proper puller and installer to replace the balancer and will make a plastic cap which can be simply siliconed in. I am investigating the cheapest timing cover and getting part numbers in case anyone else in the clan needs them.
 

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Clockwise to tighten then, still sounds unusual as I'm fairly sure that Balancer is revolving clockwise.
Tempted to give it big heat through the middle of a big old 1/2" drive socket to direct the whole flame on the Allen bolt - then shock it with the hardest clout possible.
Then Plan B with nut welding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi guys,

A more detailed description on the other site but an update all the same. The 'cap' is a combination of a large thick countersunk washer held in by a 7/16"-20 countersun bolt. The bolt presses the washer in - pushing the balancer onto the crank. The bolt in the picture screws into the front nose of the crank. Ideally, weld a nut onto the 1/4" allen bolt socket and undo. The washer will slacken and come out with the bolt. I welded to the washer as the nut was big! It still worked but I recommend welding to the bolt - albeit a tricky weld job but weld, turn, and then go for the 1/4" allen bolt.



After that you can see the balancer and pull it off the crank.


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update:

Hi All, or few as it may be,

I pulled the balancer and it deformed the puller as I did it, but it did the job safely for the balancer and crank. It revealed the very dirty timing cover it certainly looks like the balancer oil seal has gone.

The replacement is BY 12562818 SBC Plastic GM Vortec this is the "one without the timing sensor hole". When you remove it check whether the new one has rubber grommets around the bolt holes, mine didn't so I had to reuse the old ones. Due to the lip on the oil pan gasket being very deep I had to partially drop the pan to get the new cover on properly.


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Font Auto part Circle



And the alternator bracket has to be removed as it sits under the front right corner of the pan. The timing cover has a very good looking rubber gasket but I also used RTV for insurance. It fitted perfectly and easily.

I used an SBC balancer installation tool, I slipped on the balancer, lined up the keyway and threaded in the installer pressure nut which has a bearing and washer that turns on the balancer to avoid galling and rotation. The right tools make the difference and it glided on. I inserted the countersunk washer and 1/4" allen bolt and set up my torque-wrench for 60 ft/lbs and prayed.



The bolt took the 60 ft/lbs with no visible damage, the allen wrench was a different story, this is what 60 ft/lbs does to a 1/4" wrench...



The job is done, now to put back the rad etc with fresh coolant. A small point, as I have a thermostat I thought I would avoid air locks there by filling through the top hose - don't. Although I have drilled the thermostat it still can't take a lot of coolant straight in.

On reflection it's not a major job, it just takes a bit of parts removal to get to the cover - it's the balancer lock bolt that was the snag and there's no clearance behind the rad to use a normal bolt.

I'm looking forward to burning some fossil fuel again which currently in the UK is around $10.10 a British gallon!
 
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