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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Front brake light not working so I took the housing off the right side to make sure the paddle on the front brake lever was allowing the button in the brake light switch to be closed which is the off position. When I took the cover off a red wire was hanging in the breeze and a orange wire was still attached to the little module. I couldn't see where the red wire attached so I removed the module from the housing and the orange wire broke off.
Scraped off the black silicone from the module and see two small metal bumps on the module and tried touching the red and orange to both with the ignition on to see if the brake light would work and no go either way. I've put black tape on the wire ends and replaced the housing and will hit my rear brake each time but does anyone know how these hook up?
Joe
 

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Front Brake Light Sw

Joe;

The red one goes farthest from where the screw holds the switch into the housing. If the switch is held horizontal, it is the "bump" almost lined up with the plunger on the microswitch.

Now I understand why "a picture...........".

I replaced all my switchs and new wires from a "V-Twin" repair facility, not a new bike dealer. Seems as if they were very reasonably priced.

Hope this is helpful (understandable).

If not, give me a shout
H: 321-639-3969
C: 321-426-5243

Ride Safe!

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jack.....Thanks for the explanation but these two "bumps" are on the outside of the micro switch housing and are not like solder bumps. They almost look like the tops of rivets....even, round and the same size. Should I solder the wires in the order you say to these or do the wires go inside the little box? I tried holing the wires against them with the ignition on an still got no brakelight.
A little confused here especially because the box is metal and can see no insulation between the two wires if I solder them there...Joe
 

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front brake light switch

Joe;

I'll try again.

On my switch, on my spare bars, with the switch removed from the housing, the 2 "bumps" are the soldier points.

The switch appears to be 3/4 covered with a metal cover, and where the wires attach (2 bumps) appears to be black plastic of some sort.

You should be able to test the circuit by just touching the 2 bare wire ends together with the ignition ON.

When the front brake lever is RELEASED the tab pushes the microswitch to OPEN. In that respect it should not matter which wire is soldiered to which point as it's only OPEN / CLOSED.

Give me a call and I may be able to SPLAIN it better verbally what to look for. Wish I knew how to do the photo stuff and it would help you more. Or swing by a Harley shop and look @ a new uninstalled switch.

C: 321-426-5243

Ride Safe!

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jack...I understand and thanks so much for the help. This weekend, however, I'm bringing the bike to Stamford Boss Hoss to have the late model Joker controls installed so the problem will be obviated for $800 or so! Have beeen considering this change for a while and the brakelight thing just tipped me over the edge. My throttle cable spindle is worn as well and my starter button is beginning to work intermittently which all give me an excuse for the wife to get the new sweet looking setup. I understand they are chrome over billet aluminum and much higher quality as well as being much more water resistant.
I'll post what I think about these new controls so those of you that want to get away from the Custom Chrome poorly designed and made units (in my opinion) can decide if you want to consider them....Joe
 

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New Bars

Joe;

I knew you Docs were smart enough to take care of yourself, but I'm impressed you placated the Distaff side.

Havn't learned that yet. My old Boss cost me a 9ish K Vicking Embroidary Sewing machine. Damned accessories will eat you up!

Glad you have a long term cure Joe. Those new controls sound really spiffy! Awaiting photos.

Ride Safe!

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
 

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Joker Controls

Joe and TJ;

It's probably been posted before somewhere, but what are the Joker controls, and where can I read / see more about them.

My switch housings, and Ness grips have about had it. It's a fairly old scoot, and I live very close to the coast. Nuff said there!

Thanks

Ride Safe!

HAWK88
Jack Phillips
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Jack,
Joker is a company that makes very high quality bike components and, fortunately, the factory now uses them to make there controls instesd of the Custom Chrome low end units it has been using for years. The new controls are explained and pictured in the last edition of Boss Hoss Country magazine.
You can retrofit them (I understand) and even get them prewired into the handlebar from the factory. They have micro switches and are chromed billet aluminum and much better quality as far as I've heard.
Having the unit installed on Saturday and will report back to this forum and let you know if the $800 is worth the effort..Joe
PS. Tom seems to think they are great in his post here...Hope so.
 

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Joe,
I am sure you will like the looks of the new controls. I had one of those little wires come off of my microswitch in Sturgis a few years ago. Had to solder it. My solder connections were on the outside of the switch like you thought.
Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just love these Joker controls. well made, clean and neat and work perfectly but for a big price. $895 for the prewired handlebar unit. I did it but this is a big investment and unless you are a maniac as I am...your choice...Joe
 

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Joe,
They look like a clean and good looking set-up. I would be interested to see (and I would have to believe they would do fine) how they hold up in the longer term and in lots of rain (or washing). The later is not one of my stronger points.
Glenn
 
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