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Cam replacement

7K views 34 replies 14 participants last post by  HogV8 
#1 ·
I'm thinking about installing a wilder cam in my ZZ4 this winter along with a timing gear set up . All though I've wrenched on dozens of Harleys over the years and have done some wrenching on cars and trucks , I have never replaced a cam. Where can I find some step by step instructions to remove and install a new cam in the small block ?

A few more questions , what cam should i use to give me the best sound and performance , should I also install a set of 1.6 roller rockers , and is the timing gear set up going to sound good or will the noise drive me nuts ? Any and all advise would be greatly appreciated .

Thanks,
Jack
 
#2 ·
Hey Jack,

If you go to Comp Cams site, they used to have a complete installation guide available on line.

1.6 is what the GM hot cam setup uses for rockers.

Gear drives can be ordered in different "volumes" from sources like Pete Jackson, etc......they sound just like a 671/871 blower...... :lol: 8)

Tim
 
#3 ·
Thanks Tim , I'll check it out . Your a motor head , what Cam, rocker set and timing gear set would you recommend for the best sound ? Performance is also important to me of course but I need that great sound .

Jack
 
#4 ·
Jack,

Well, I'm pretty happy with the performance that these Comp Cams produce.....they are ground a little different than the GM 'Hot Cam' kits so they don't have as much 'lope' to them.....but a couple years ago when I talked to Comp they said they had developed the grind for the weight of the bike....???

If you listen to the small blocks with 'real' GM Hot Cams, they sound a lot meatier. Interesting that BH says the current Comp Cam in a small block develops 385hp.....GM advertises the "Hot Cam' ZZ4 at 394hp....but ours use 1.53 rocker instead of the 1.6 and the grind is a bit different.....I just don't think that you can tell the difference in 10 hp or so......now add a little 'juice' & your 'butt dyno' will tell you that something is different......
just ask Steve Hanson :lol:

If I was doing it from scratch, I would probably use the GM kit and a Pete Jackson "noisey" gear set........they'll hear you coming for sure :lol: 8)

Tim
 
#6 ·
Tim ,
So your saying that the GM Hot cam will give me the lope that sounds meaty ? If so that's what I want . Is there a part # or is it just called ZZ4 HOT CAM . Does this Hot cam require the 1.6 rockers or can the stock ZZ4 rockers be used with it ?

Lamont ,

I hear you on the constant whine . It may not be for me either .

Does anyone on this board run the timing gear set ?

Jack
 
#8 ·
Jack,

If I'm not mistaken, Adrian was running a real "Hot Cam" in his motor at the rally......it sounded considerably more lumpy than mine. Right Adrian?
Could have been those darned headers too.

The 1.6 rockers and springs aren't necessary, but they add to the overall performance and work well with the ZZ4..........they were designed specfically for it.

Tim
 
#10 ·
Hi Jack, I'm running a Comp Cam # 8-422-8. It is very close in Lift and Duration as the GM Hot Cam. The only difference is, it has a 110LSA, the Hot Cam is 112LSA. The 110 grind gives the engine more low end torque. The Hot Cam is ground to perform better in the higher RPM range. Both Cams sound great and do add to the preformance. You'll just need to put the power where you want it.

I'm also running the 1.6 Roller Rockers. And replaced the stock springs with a 130# set. This all worked well on the stock heads.

But a little pocket porting wouldn't hurt things either.

If I ever go to a gear timing set it will be the quietest ones.

Just my 2 cents
 
#11 ·
Thanks Tim , Wag and Mike for all the info . I know I can do this cam replacement with some instructions .
Do I need any special tools or pullers ? I've got all kinds of tools and a standard set of pullers but if I need anything special I'll order it before I start the project .

Thanks,
Jack
 
#12 ·
HogV8 said:
Thanks Tim , Wag and Mike for all the info . I know I can do this cam replacement with some instructions .
Do I need any special tools or pullers ? I've got all kinds of tools and a standard set of pullers but if I need anything special I'll order it before I start the project .

Thanks,
Jack
Jack

You won't need any special tools, except the steering wheel puller to pull the front snout. It is a straight up job. A quick way that I do it (and have done 4 in the Boss's) W/O pulling the engine. I take the bolts out of the pan in the front all the way and just loosen the back bunch (almost to the last couple of threads) so I can drop the front of the pan. You have to drop the pan to get the front cover off but you won't need to pull the pan off all the way.

I ran an Engle, Crane and the last was the best performing, was a H.O.T. Chevrolet cam with 1.6 (Crane) Roller Rockers. You don't need to change the springs but you will need to change the front plastic cover because you will probably break it. I am just getting ready to install a H.O.T cam in Bob's 350 so if you like I will take some pictures as I go.

Adrian
 
#15 ·
HogV8 said:
Adrian, that would be great if you would take some pictures and email them to me with some tips to make my job easier or you can post them if anyone else is interested . My email address is delelys@dreamscape.com

Thanks,
Jack
Adrian,
I would like to see them, too, please.
Like Jack already said, please post them here, or send a copy
of Jack's email to Haenig@t-online.de

Thanks,
Loaf
 
#17 ·
Jack,

Are you going to go with gear drive?? Everyone I've read about on their sites talk about having to make "minor alterations"....kinda wonder if it can be done with the motor in the scoot.

I was thinking if I pulled the motor to do the frame next winter it would be a good time to go to gear drive, chrome pan, front cover, etc......

Tim
 
#18 ·
CarburetorMike said:
Hi Jack, I'm running a Comp Cam # 8-422-8. It is very close in Lift and Duration as the GM Hot Cam. The only difference is, it has a 110LSA, the Hot Cam is 112LSA. The 110 grind gives the engine more low end torque. The Hot Cam is ground to perform better in the higher RPM range. Both Cams sound great and do add to the preformance. You'll just need to put the power where you want it.

I'm also running the 1.6 Roller Rockers. And replaced the stock springs with a 130# set. This all worked well on the stock heads.

But a little pocket porting wouldn't hurt things either.

If I ever go to a gear timing set it will be the quietest ones.

Just my 2 cents

Mike speaks the truth about the lower end TQ----make the most of the power!! We do not have many gears to choose from!!
 
#20 ·
Tim , yes I read that about the alterations and because of that and the fact that the noise might drive me nuts , I am going to stick with the chain . I've heard cars with the gear set up and yes they do sound kinda wild but they are not setting on top of their engine like we are .

I've got to talk to Mike more about the cam he is running . I want the low end torque as long as that same cam will give me the lopeing sound that I love .

I've been wanting to do this cam change for quite a while , but with moving and all that it's been put on the back burner . Now that I'm settled and have my nice warm dream garage , it's time

Jack
 
#21 ·
Jack,

One thing to consider about the cam profile/power curve....the bike only weighs 1200+ pounds, not exactly a battle ship to move off the line??? Remember that 99 1/2 % of the cams ground today are ground for automotive applications....not Boss Hoss....the only one I'm aware of is the Comp that was used in the '03 small blocks and beyond. So those cams are profiled to initiate movement of a vehicle weighing 3000# and more from a dead stop....more torque on the bottom end, more launch.
Ever had a problem with the bike being slow off the line?? Didn't think so.
Lots of bottom end torque will equate to a tire shredder.....ever have a problem spinning your tire ??

Personally I prefer the power to come in a little farther into the rpm range where the tire is already hooked up and you can use it. About perfect if you can get the power to come on about 2500 to 3000 and pull all the way to 6500 or so.........consider that even from a rolling start, the tire does not usually settle down until 45 to 60 mph with good throttle management, that puts you about 3000 rpm, then if that is were the power band starts to peak, your in the "sweet spot" of the HP......go fast, hang on :)

Just my opinion, but if you call the tech line of any cam company, they will want to know ALL of the specs for the vehicle.....when you tell them it weighs 1200 pounds and only has 1 tire driving it, I would bet they will say they would have to custom grind a cam for it.

That was also one of the reasons Marv decided to promote TRI-Y headers, the hp gains on that design comes on in the upper 1/3 of the power band, where the bike is already hooked-up. Sandersons design puts most of the power into the bottom 1/2 of the power curve (but they really sound cool).

I'd have Wag or Adrian or Breedlove give you more ideas for the profile. They are they hardcore 1/4 mile guys and know where the power will give you the most benenfit.....

Tim
 
#22 ·
Tim,

With the kind of HP and TQ my bike makes and to a certain extent most others here as well the big problem is hooking up the tire at any speed. If your tire is hooked up and the peak power is delivered (mine is at 579 TQ at 2500 649 TQ @3500 695 TQ @4500 and 605 TQ@5500 at total timing of 32 degrees it is now 38 degrees) and the tire does not break loose again then you have either a great tire which I am in search of or are not making the TQ and HP you think you are. With the factory tire or a regular hard passenger car tire if the power comes on suddenly then it is harder to manage additionally, on the street with me anyway it is a lot easier manage the Flying Brick with the flat TQ curve!

My engine could have been set up to run another 50 to 75 hp but the bragging of having 750hp was overshadowed with the need to get it hooked up and to stay hooked up so I can whip my SB buddies and still look cool! As it is mine twists drive shafts so I need a tire that hooks up almost all the way and to that end my BFG Drag Radial should be delivered today!!!!!!
:capwin:
 
#23 ·
The big thing you have to remember about any performance item is
they are made to help the engine inhale more air and fuel.

Any single item will help, within the limitation of the next weakest link,
and with a ZZ4, this link is the head flow. The L98 heads quit flowing
way early as compared to a more high performance head. Hence a
camshaft with more duration and lift will not result in better performanc
and will just "puke" torque and make the owner very unhappy, even
though it sounds mean at an idle. The more cylinder fill you can get
and compress without detenation, the more torque and hp you will
produce.

Any camshaft around the same specifications of the GM-Hot Cam, will
give good results in a stock ZZ4

Loose or higher stall torque converters will allow you to run a somewhat larger cam as the engine doesn't load until higher rpm, kind of like cheating a little.

Just my .02

Geezer

If drinking and driving is illegal, why do bars have parking lots?
 
#24 ·
So it sounds to me like my best bet for my stock ZZ4 for performance and sound would be the GM HOT CAM set up or something very close ? If I had more modifications that would be a different story .

Jack
 
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