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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I am getting ready to change the oil and tranny fluid in my 2002, and it will be the first time I have did this with this auto bike, as my other one was a clutch bike. I was reading in the manual that you should jack up the bike, warm the fluid for 5 minutes, then drain, clean filter, add the new MX4T, then warm for 5 minutes, check level. Is it necessary to warm the tranny first? Also, how much MX4T does it usually take to refill the tranny, as I am sure the torque converter is not emptied out during the change? I know these questions may seem trivial, but I definately want to do it correctly. Thanks all!
 

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Mike,

When I've changed mine, I have always let the trans warm up to facilitate the draining process. Once you have the fluid drained out of the tranny and the pan off, I let it sit for a while to drain. Then replace the pan and refill...........then start the bike and let it idle in gear for about a minute or two, shut it off and wait about a minute before you check the level. The amount of fluid is determined by how long it drains, the convertor does not drain.

Make sure you get the filter ass'y back in the correct direction, watch when you remove, as many have put it in upside down and ruined the filter.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Tim, I really appreciate the info. I LOVE the auto, but it will take me a while to get used to the maintenance, etc. with it. Thanks to all you guys here on the site for the priceless information. (Any other pointers will be appreciated). :lol:
 

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EastnMike said:
Hey all, I am getting ready to change the oil and tranny fluid in my 2002, and it will be the first time I have did this with this auto bike, as my other one was a clutch bike. I was reading in the manual that you should jack up the bike, warm the fluid for 5 minutes, then drain, clean filter, add the new MX4T, then warm for 5 minutes, check level. Is it necessary to warm the tranny first? Also, how much MX4T does it usually take to refill the tranny, as I am sure the torque converter is not emptied out during the change? I know these questions may seem trivial, but I definately want to do it correctly. Thanks all!
I do it just like Tim however I will let it drain a little longer (some times over night). I then measure the amount I get out and replace it the very same amount. The reason for overnight is it will drain some of the converter but is not necessary. It takes about 2 and 1/2 to 3 qts. If it drains over night I have put back 4 qts. Be careful tighten the pan back up. Just get it nice and tight (22 Inch pounds) from my manual not foot pounds.

Adrian
 

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Adrain,

I usually leave it overnight also...........usually not in a hurry to go anywhere seeing as it rains most of the summer and snows the rest of the year :lol:

How's going out there in Gods' Country??? I suppose you folks are about into a draught year 8)

Not working too hard on the scooters, have to get the rear frost plugs replaced on Victorias' big block before next weekend.....having a car show and she wants to drive to work.....think she just wants to blow the tires off it for all the boys :lol: Oh well.

Tim
 

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It should drain about two quarts. I measure what comes out to give me a good ball park of what to put back in. Overfiling even a little over the line will cause a big choclate mess when you ride it. I know.
I installed a "high stall" torque converter a while ago and was very surprised to see the converter drain almost another two quarts after draining the tranny fluid! I doesn't look big enough to hold that much. I would guess that letting it sit and drain overnight would help drain some of the fluid out of the torque converter.
A few people have told me to expect a lot of metal in the filter and on the pan bottom. My first oil change didn't produce much metal, but I have found quite a bit more in later oil changes.
Can anyone tell me if that is in fact normal, or where the metal shavings are comming from?
Regards,
Kurt
 

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Kurt Roll said:
It should drain about two quarts. I measure what comes out to give me a good ball park of what to put back in. Overfiling even a little over the line will cause a big choclate mess when you ride it. I know.
I installed a "high stall" torque converter a while ago and was very surprised to see the converter drain almost another two quarts after draining the tranny fluid! I doesn't look big enough to hold that much. I would guess that letting it sit and drain overnight would help drain some of the fluid out of the torque converter.
A few people have told me to expect a lot of metal in the filter and on the pan bottom. My first oil change didn't produce much metal, but I have found quite a bit more in later oil changes.
Can anyone tell me if that is in fact normal, or where the metal shavings are comming from?
Regards,
Kurt


The metal seems to be in most pans but it is not normal. I found most of the metal was coming from the converters in mine.

Adrian
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Guys, I really appreciate the info. I start on vacation after next weekend, and I hope to ride the new Boss quite a bit...may even head south toward Florida (if my wife will agree to ride the bike with me that far)... :lol: I just want to make sure that everything is as ready as I can get it before we leave out on a trip, fresh oil,tranny oil, etc. You guys are the best source of info I have found on the Boss, and I greatly appreciate it. 8)
 

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This is my first tranny oil change also. I do not know what type of oil is in the bike now. RE synthetic or non synthetic. I will be putting 10w -40 synthetic amsoil in. The manual says not to mix different viscosity oil as they will cause foaming. They are using standard HY-GAURD as an example. If there is non synthetic oil in the trany now and the converter does not drain what have you guys done to change over to fully replace the tranny oil. I recall somewhere seeing a post on how to drain the whole thing but cant find it . Thanks in advance.

Bill
 

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Bill,

Yours should have Mobil1 MX4T in it. I think everything from '03 and newer had it. It's synthetic and they use 10W-40. Available from most M/C shops, commonly used in 2 strokes where all internals share common oil galley.

Make sure you DON"T over tighten the two drain plugs/securing bolt when you replace them.......they are torqued to INCH pounds, not foot pounds.

Tim
 

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I have 27,000 miles on my 2000 two speed. (on my third tranny) If you use the Snapon pin socket that fits the bolts, it is hard to over torque them. Hold the ratchet handle under the pin socket with one hand and you won't be able to over tighten the bolts. I haven't paid any attention to torque readings and make them very snug by feel and have never had a leak or a problem and have problably changed the tranny fluid 7 or 8 times or more. Don't get obsessive about it because you'll know when they're tight enough. Just don't squash the gasket or warp the pan...Joe
 

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I think I will disconect the inlet hose on the cooler and drop it in the synthetic . Disconect outlet and with motor running, let it drain until synthetic is through system. Sounds to simple , but practical. And I think I will drop the pan and clean the screen first. Initial waste of 2 or 3 quarts of oil but so what. And last but not least don't overtighten the bolts.
It sounds like that little tidbit could give me some dirty grief.
Thanks guys

Was doing somemore looking and went to wags site and low and behold why the hell didnt I just start there. That is a DAM GOOD spot for info.
Thanks buddy
Bill
 
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