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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to share this with you guys, in case you run into this same problem in the future. The problem was the shifter woulod not return to the correct position after shifting, and had no "pressure" on the foot shifter. The tranny still shifted fine, but it had no pressure on it at all. Sometimes this can stem from a loose set screw on the shifter shaft, so please check these first, to make sure that is not you problem. If your problem is as mine was, here are the steps I used to make the shaft swap very easy. (Thanks to the factory, Jim at Nesco, and many fellow Boss Hoss owners):
Hey all, I had a situation a couple weeks ago, where the shifter would not go back into place after changing gears. The trouble turned out to be a broken spring on the shifter shaft. In my previous message I stated that I would post the replacement procedure after I had completed mine.
First of all, I want to thank all of you fro your replies and info on the problem. Then, I want to say that Jim Calloway at Nesco seems to be a fine fellow, and very helpful. Also, the factory reps I talked with (Levi and Mark), were fantastic on guiding me through the task very easily. Here are the steps that worked for replacing the shaft:
1. Drain pan by removing one of the pan bolts.
2. Remove pan from the tranny.
3. While it is draining, (on mine) I removed the left exhaust pipe.
4. Once the pipe is removed, you can take out the 2 set screws holding the shifter linkage to the tranny shaft.
5. Once the linkage is off the shaft, the shaft is held in place by a large 2-sided nut (I used a large cresent wrench) on the outside of the tranny, just under the shifter linkage you just removed.
6. Once this nut is removed, remove the filter from the tranny to gain access to the shaft.
7. On the bottom of the tranny valve body, you will see a short strip that the left pan bolt bolts down to. It is attached to the valve body by two allen head screws 3/16" (I think). Remove these two screws, and remove the strip. This strip will have in it the two holes for the screws, and an elongated hole for the 2 ends of the spring to fit through. (If your problem is the same as mine, one of the spring ends will be lying in the pan, with only one going through the elongated hole where it supposed to be).
8. If you look up into the shaft area, you will see that the shaft is supported on the inside by a pillar block, which is held by 2 more 3/16" allen head bolts. These can now be removed, to allow the shaft to come out. This is a tight fit, and the tube that the filter attaches to must be be GENTLY bent a small amount to allow the shaft to be removed. This should let the shaft fall from the tranny.
9. The hardest part of replacing the shaft, is getting it worked back into position. The only way I could do this was to GENTLY manipulate the pick-up tube. (I even called Mark one of the service techs at the factory to confirm this is correct, and he said it was the only way).
10. Once the new shaft is back into place, installation is in reverse of removal, with the exception that BOTH spring ends go through the elongated hole. This is what puts pressure on the shaft to return it to the correct position after shifting.
11. When re-installing the nut on the outside of the tranny near the linkage, put teflon tape around the threads to insure that it doesn't leak.
12. Clean filter while it is out, refill the tranny with Mobil MX4T to the proper level. For me, after replacing the pan and fill up the tranny to the "high" mark on the tranny oil level mark. Then while still on jack stands, start the Boss and let it get up to normal operating temps, while in gear. I go through the gears during this time. After the engine operating temps get to 150-160 degrees, run the Boss in gear for about 5 or so minutes. Turn off the engine, and check the tranny level. Mine is always 1/2 qt or a little more lower now. I add enough Mobil MX4T to bring it back up to the full level mark.
13. After you smile and pat yourself on the back for completing the task...isn't it time to go ahead and change the enging oil while the Boss is jacked up?

*Note*...change the oil and replace the exhaust pipe before starting the Boss up and getting it to operating temps for the tranny oil top-off.


I hope this helps anyone that may have to do this task on their auto tranny Boss.
Mike
 

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Nice write-up Mike!
I've already copied it and put it in my "Boss Hoss" loose leaf book, in the "Transmission" section. Thanks a bunch! :capwin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You guys are most welcome. I know through the years of Boss Hoss ownership, I have found the owners here on the net to be the best source of info (the owners and the factory reps). It is nice to actually pass on a little info, with the hopes that it will help someone along the way.
 
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