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The alternator brackets on these bikes is notorious for breaking causing the the belt to be misaligned and come off . Just a thought . Top motor mount bolts are also notorious for leaking . Could need to be removed and resilicone seal the blots .
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
The alternator brackets on these bikes is notorious for breaking causing the the belt to be misaligned and come off . Just a thought . Top motor mount bolts are also notorious for leaking . Could need to be removed and resilicone seal the blots .
Yep. I do regular cleaning and spot checks, and remove the alternator bracket now and then for a full inspection. So far so good.

Those top engine mount studs are an endless source of irritation. I need to get around to putting silicone sealer on them one of these days. I've been wrapped up in other things and procrastinating.

Meanwhile, I have a mild front main seal leak. Oil cakes up on the front of the pan but it doesn't drip. I'm too lazy to want to remove the headers or split the frame to replace it right now. These nit-picky little repairs are wearing me out. When I do finally get around to it, I'll probably install a chrome steel pan. Sure, it will get beat up, dirty, and sand blasted by the elements, but I just really do not like this black one that's on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Always Something... Ha!

The third brake light crapped out on me. LED. Not a show stopper, as the combination tail/brake lights in the trike's '57 Chevy fins still do the trick. The size of the frame is pretty generic, so finding a suitable replacement frame with a third brake light and clear license plate illuminator shouldn't be a problem. Plenty to be had on eBay for a decent price.

Meanwhile, I reckon I'll use this opportunity for a little down time, so I can re-seat and re-seal the leaking upper engine mount studs in the intake manifold. The weather is perfect for it. I won't roast in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
New Rear Brake Master Cylinder

I installed an aftermarket Kelsey-Hayes style (Harley-Davidson) 3/4" bore rear brake master cylinder, to replace the faulty Boss Hoss unit that has been repaired and rebuilt one too many times. It has held up nicely for three days, but now I have another problem to tend, not brake related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
Radiator Has Sprung New Leaks

I cannot help but wonder whether my radiator was never properly flushed in 16 years and now it is rotting from the inside out? Sure, it is aluminum, but corrosion does build up. There was physical damage a few months ago and I had that repaired and pressure tested at a professional radiator shop. Was a proper flush part of the pressure test? Who knows? If so, then too little, too late? Maybe.

Now this. I swear this trike is cursed or something. There must be a valid reason I am owner #8 of this thing, and I think I have pretty damn solid idea why...

Anyway...

With family medical problems, I am too far in over my head to make any move toward repairs or replacement. My three-wheeled therapy will just have to remain garaged until further notice. There's nothing new under the sun.
 

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Do you have the part number

I've added a front inline banjo bolt/brake light switch. Works perfectly every time! No more wondering if my brake lights won't shut off!

I have also added a seat back/rest (thank you Paul H)! It tilts backward at just the right angle. The seat design puts the back rest up a little high, right where I need it: mid back, at the shoulder blades! Riding is a luxury now!

It's great to be back on the road!




Do you still have the pats numbers and maybe some pictures on how this is done. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
If you're referring to the hand brake master cylinder banjo bolt, I used:

- 1 ea. Goodridge PBL775-44CH Harley Brake Light Banjo Bolt w/Pressure Switch 7/16-24

Some of them are 3/8-24 (it depends on what hand controls you have). Many are advertised as 10mm and 12mm. My foot brake banjo bolt (Kelsey-Hayes style) is 10mm but it does not have a light switch. My foot brake light switch is further downstream.

As for the hnd brake banjo bolt/light switch, the installation is easy but it requires disassembly of the collar around the throttle grip. This serves two purposes:
(1) To remove the spring-loaded mehanical brake light switch
(2) To run the banjo bolt pressure switch wiring into the collar/switch housing through the hole left by the spring-loaded switch
The wiring of the pressure switch connects directly to the existing spring-loaded switch terminals. You might need to re-tip them though. You'll see what I mean once you pluck into it.



 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Seat Modification Project

While saving up for a second round of repairs or a replacement for my radiator, I've decided to use the down-time to cut the front of my trike's fiberglass seat pan for the purpose of making it possible to tilt the main fuel tank back without having to raise the fiberglass tilt body first. The hinges have already broken twice, and I'd like to alleviate some of the stress by not having to raise the body so often. That, and it's a little less effort when having to do intake work.

Those who have been following this huge thread likely know that I re-plumbed the fuel lines and rigged up a front-end quick-release setup for the main tank two years ago.

As it is, the front of the massive touring seat covers the distributor AND the rear of the main fuel tank. The seat is squared up and not rounded to conform to the arch in the rear of the tank like on so many other bikes and trikes, so it's got to go.

Most of the cutting and repetitive test fitting is complete. I will be able to pull the upholstery back over the padding and seat pan soon. I didn't cut any of the leather, knowing I would re-attach it.

I will upload photo's sooner or later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #209 ·
On the Road Again!

The seat modification is crudely completely. Not too terribly bad, actually. It will get professionally reupholstered eventually.

We were at 105* today (only 12% humidity though), so I hydrated like a fish and went out riding. After two months of sitting and tearing my hair out, it's great to be out there again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Photo's from the Seat Modification

Before, during, and after shots from my crude seat modification. I can now raise the main fuel tank without having to lift the fiberglass body. Reupholstery to be done at a later date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
More Shenanigans from the Cursed Trike

Only two days back on the road and already the big bitch is trying to kill me again. At first I thought it was a bad turn signal relay, but after I got to work I discovered it had popped a fuse. I had no lights at all, not even brake lights. Fortunately, I carry spares. I get to live to die another day...

I've added a little pic of how I feel every time I get on this thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 · (Edited)
Eating Fuses Like Candy

Something is wrong with this $40 lighted license plate frame with third brake light, or perhaps the wiring. Having been on the road only three times since installing it, it has popped three fuses. My fuse block is a new Blue Seas type. Only stating this because I am quite certain the problem is not there.

During the side of the road fuse changing distraction, I forgot to re-install the fuse block cover. I'm sure it's flat and shattered now.

I suppose I'd better run some tests with a multimeter. Hoss is gonna sit some more...
 

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Something is wrong with this $40 lighted license plate frame with third brake light. Having been on the road only three times since installing it, it has popped three fuses. My fuse block is a new Blue Seas type.

During the side of the road fuse changing distraction, I forgot to re-install the fuse block cover. I'm sure it's flat and shattered now.

I suppose I'd better run some tests with a multimeter. Hoss is gonna sit some more...
Probably a pinched wire from licence Plat frame installation ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 · (Edited)
I'll look into it. For now I have the third brake light disconnected but the license plate illuminators are still connected. Hopefully that will preserve the fuse until I can get back home.

My gut is telling me the third brake light is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
Probably a pinched wire from licence Plat frame installation ?
Ruled that out on the ride home. Another fuse popped so pulled over and disconnected all the wires from the plate frame. Fuse #5 blasted out right after. Time to garage the pig yet AGAIN, and play seek and go hide with all of the light wiring...
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Blown Fuse Problems in Lighting Circuit Possibly Resolved

So far it's looking like the culprit was a break in the insulation of the right front turn signal insulation, intermittently making contact with the highway bar. Running tests in the garage with high beams and hazards on appear to support my theory. So far so good. I reckon I will reconnect the license plate frame wires after the garage cools off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 · (Edited)
The Curse Continues... Will Turn Over, Won't Run...

I played the 500 yard hop on the way home from work for three miles. Got a tow for the last two miles. Run and quit, run and quit, run and quit, and then finally not start. 110* heat. The whole 5 mile stretch took about 2-1/2 hours between restarts, troubleshooting, and finally giving up and waiting for the flatbed.

The two times before last the problem was a loose ground cable on my Carter P4070 electronic fuel pump.

The time before last it was a loose positive battery cable.

Last time it was fuel that had sat too long while under-going electrical repairs.

This time? Who flippin' knows? I reckon I will start with the paper fuel filter in the carburetor since everything else seems to check out at first glance. Plenty of fresh gasoline making it to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is running. Will disconnect the hose and see if anything is leaving the pump then move to the filer.

Endless, endless barrage of grief with this pig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
Root Cause of this Round of Fuel Woes

Failed fuel selector valve between the main and auxiliary tanks. It stopped feeding the fuel pump. No roasted fuse.

I will bypass it tomorrow then install a manual selector at a later date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Correction to Fuel Delivery Problem Root Cause

It was not the fuel tank selector valve, but the inline fuse for it. The plastic fuse housing had dry rotted and separated, causing the fuse to flop around and break electrical contact. I had overlooked it because it was inside a sheathed wire bundle. I had forgotten the selector valve had an inline fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
Electric Fuel Selector Failed and Alternator Not Charging Battery

3 weeks between problems this time around.

Had to do a roadside repair: disconnected the electric fuel selector and piped the main tank directly to the fuel pump. Inline fuse is fine. Wiring intact. Will go along with my original plan from a few weeks ago and get a manual fuel selector valve. Apparently a compound problem that I only halfway fixed last time.

Also on same trip this morning: voltmeter suddenly dropped from 13v to 10v. I thought I had lost another alternator belt. Confirmed it was still there, rode home. 8 volts when I arrived. Dim headlight. All cables firm, secure. Battery was replaced last year. No guarantee it isn't the battery, but considering the age of the alternator, it's probably due.
 
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