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881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some redundant information here, as most (if not all of it) can be found in other threads.

Date of Purchase, 08 December 2014:

- 2001 Boss Hoss BHC-3 (formerly a bike)
- Trike conversion frame built by Breedlove Performance (in North Carolina?)
- BHC-9 style custom fabricated '57 Chevy fiberglass body with air cooling vents and tilt kit
- Custom under-body storage space with the name "B. Banks" painted on it

Mileage at the Time of Purchase
- 23,040

- 4130 Chrome-Moly alloy tubing

- 1.5 inch O.D.
- 0.95 in. wall
- Investment Cast heat-treated 4130 alloy neck (yoke)
- 63mm (2.5 inches) Dia. inverted fork

- Chevrolet ZZ4 crate motor (ZZ4 kit P/N 19201331)
- Displacement: 350 c.i. (5.7L), block casting #0243880 (P/N 10105123)
- Bore x stroke (in.): 4.000 x 3.480
- Crankshaft: forged steel (P/N 12556307)
- Connecting rods: powdered metal steel (P/N 10108688 )
- Pistons: hypereutectic aluminum (P/N 10159436)
- Camshaft: steel hydraulic roller (P/N 10185071)
- Camshaft lift (in.): .474 intake / .510 exhaust
- Camshaft duration (@ 0.50 in.): 208 deg. intake / 221 deg. exhaust
- Camshaft lobe separation: 112 degrees LSA

Cylinder Heads
- Chevrolet TBI "Captain's Bar" L94 heads (re-engineered), aluminum (P/N 12556463)
- External casting number: 0828001
- Internal casting number between 1st and 2nd spring sets: 0140
- Internal casting number between 3rd and 4th spring sets: 10088113
- Compression ratio: 10:1
- Intake volume: 163cc

- Chamber volume: 58cc
- Valve springs: from 1996 LT4 production Corvette, 1.32 in. O.D., 1.22 in. solid height (P/N 12551483)
- Valve spring pressure at installed height: 101 lbs. @ 1.78 in., 332 lbs. avg. rate per inch
- Valve spring retainer: P/N 10168424
- Valve size (in.): 1.94 intake / 1.50 exhaust
- Valve angle: 23
- Rocker arms: stamped steel (rail-type assembly P/N 809-10089648 ), w/ 3/8” screw-in rocker studs
- Rocker arm ratio: 1.5:1
- Ignition timing: Base 10 deg. BTDC, 32 deg. total
- Maximum recommended RPM: 5800
- Balanced: external
- Raised D-Port exhaust (uses GM gasket #375-1470)
- Angled 3/4 in. reach gasket plugs w/ 5/8 in. hex heads (AC FR5LS; can also use 904 or MR43 LTS)
- Valve cover center bolts
- Standard 1955-86 intake angle

- Original 10088113 casting was for a ZZ3 application (1988-up)
- Airflow: 240 CFM

Fuel Delivery System
- Twin 4 gallon primary fuel tanks connected via welded sheet metal (single tank in appearance)
- Intake manifold: Chevrolet “Bow-Tie” ZZ4, aluminum, casting #10185062 (firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2)
- Edelbrock 8904 1901 1460 W - 750 CFM Quadrajet carburator
- Airtex E8012S fuel pump (30 GPH @ 5-9 PSI - no regulator installed)
- JAZ Products 378-090-03 tube type fuel level sending unit, 0-90 Ohm GM (1965-1997), 8.5" L
- 3/8 in. I.D. rubber fuel line
- RCI 2040A (UPC 798663204001) 4-gallon fuel cell (12"W x 10"L x 8"H), TIG-welded 5051 aircraft aluminum, -8 AN threaded outlets, and "anti-slosh" foam

Engine Cooling System (Water)
- Radiator details unknown
- Thermostat housing/"water neck": GM Y2 1010 8470, 15-degree angle, 1.75 inch inner diameter (no thermostat)
- Radiator upper hose: Dayco "Straight Hose" 76150, 2.00" I.D. clamped down to 1.75" I.D. and cut to 10" in length

- Sanderson "JP" Headers (details unknown)
- Exhaust tip details unknown

Charging/Electrical System
- Optima High Performance AGM Redtop Battery 75/35-925
- Siron Performance Ignition/Distributor Wires, Orange (other details unknown)
- Distributor details unknown
- Alternator details unknown
- Starter details unknown
- White-Rodgers 70-111226-5 12VDC continuous duty solenoid

- TH350 3 speed from Brad's Transmissions in Whitehouse, Texas
- 10 inch torque converter, stall speed unknown
- 27 Spline output shaft
- Gear ratios: 1st = 2.52, 2nd = 1.52, 3rd = 1.00, Reverse = 1.93

- B&M 80690 Megashifter, ratchet type, remote mount

Front End
- 63.5mm dia (2.5 inch dia/7.85 inch circumference) Triple Tree
- 3/4 inch (0.75) dia axle shaft (torque @ 50 lbs-ft)
- Harley-Davidson 1-1/4" Handlebars, tapered to 1" for grips and controls, chrome
- Memphis Shades MEP5227 Wind Screen, Serial #M458441

Rear End
- Chevrolet 12-Bolt Chevelle narrowed Posi-Traction rearend
- 3.23 Gears

- 2 ea. 15x10 Cragar S/S Chrome Steel wheels
- 2 ea. BF Goodrich T/A radials P275/60R15 rear tires, S rated (112 MPH), 27.3" dia. x 9.5" wide (tread width), load index 107 (2,149 lbs.)
- 1 ea. 16" dia. (x 4" wide ?) factory Boss Hoss aluminum 3-spoke wheel (Sturgis brand, appears to be model 302-00)
- 1 ea. ME 880 Marathon 130/90-16 M/C 57H front tire

- Corbin studded dual/touring seat (model unknown, resembles a model 433 for a '93-95 H-D Dyna Wide Glide); hand-written markings underneath: HVTXDT-297L-297S 101816
- 1 ea. rear passenger studded backrest, not adjustable (brand and model unknown)

Daily commuter and weekend long-distance rider, rain or shine (when it's not down for repairs). Haven't faced any snow. Won't go looking for it, either. The car sits at home.


List of repairs/replacement parts I have installed since buying the trike. After 11 months of ownership the trike has seen roughly 4,000 miles and only about 3 non-consecutive months worth of road time (a week here before it broke, two weeks there before it broke again, another week before another repair. I've yet to keep it on the road for a month straight.):

- 1 ea. KNN-60-1330 K&N Air Cleaner Assembly
- 1 ea. KNN-E-3380PR K&N PreCharger Air Filter Wrap
- 1 ea. HLY-108-62 Holley Air Cleaner Gasket for 5.125" I.D. neck
- 1 ea. RPC-R2178X 6" carburetor air cleaner stud with 1/4-20 thread (original was corroded)

- 2 ea. Wilwood 120-10188-N Dynapro Single LW with 3.25" mount centers, nickel plated aluminum
- 4 ea. Wilwood 15E-9820K Polymatrix E Street Performance/Racing pads
- 2 ea. Wilwood 220-13125 Caliper Inlet Fittings, 90 -3 flared tube to 1/8” -27 NPT
- 1 ea. New Old Stock Harley-Davidson OEM 45019-82 5/8” bore front Master Brake Cylinder with brake lever, chrome plated, with 12mm 7/16-24 banjo bolt
- 1 ea. Goodridge PBL775-44CH Harley Brake Light Banjo Bolt w/Pressure Switch 7/16-24 (new banjo bolt has a 9/16" hex head instead of a 12mm toothed/star-patterned head)
- 2 ea. New Old Stock RevTech 09001 Stainless Steel Brake Rotors for Harley-Davidson, 11.5” dia. x 1/4” thick (replaces Harley-Davidson OEM 44136-84A)
- 1 ea. NAPA SL134, Chevrolet 90 PSI rear Brake Light Pressure Switch (D2641-4), replaced 3 units between 16 Dec 2014 and 10 Nov 2016
- 1 ea. MID-USA Brake Hose 49699, Clear Coat Braided Stainless Steel 26" (rear master cylinder to brake light pressure switch) MFG# PD2600, 3AN (3/8-24)
- 1 ea. Drag Specialties #1204-2724 REAR BLOCK TEE, Ven #297 with hole for brake light pressure switch, 1/8" 3 AN triple chrome plated steel
- 1 ea. Goodridge #PMCHD-014 Brake Tee (#3 both ends x 1/8 NPT) TO REPLACE ^^^ Drag Specialties #1204-2724 (get rid of 90* L-bend in "T")
- 1 ea. Kelsey-Hayes Harley-Davidson Rear Master Cylinder rebuild kit #23-0860
- 1 ea. CPP Classics JK613B low pressure 45 PSI rear Brake Light Pressure Switch (installed on 11 Nov 2016 to replace the 90 PSI NAPA unit)
- 2 ea. (one at each rear wheel) Dorman #12701 Quick Bleeder Screws (one-way check valve, 3/8-24 x 1-3/16)

- 2 ea. R&R Chassis 5/8" HEIM Joints with Jam Nut, adjustable, Tail Shaft

- 1 ea. Optima High Performance AGM Redtop Battery 75/35-925

- 1 ea. Stebel Nautilus SCN-BLK (FND1 - OEM 11690019) Compact Twin Air Horn, 139bB
- 1 ea. Amanet SNPNP Universal Plug-n-Play Wiring Harness with Inline 20 Amp Fuse and 30 Amp Relay for motorcycle air horns
- 1 ea. Thermostatic fan switch
- 1 ea. Water temperature sensor for gauge
- 1 ea. Auto Meter Sport Comp Silver part #ATM-3910 tachometer

Ignition System
- 1 ea. Optima High Performance AGM Redtop Battery 75/35-925
- 1 ea. MSD HEI billet distributor core #8362 "Street Fire"
- 1 ea. MSD HEI distributor cap, red, with brass terminals and ignition wire lock-down cover
- 1 ea. Rotor cap (distributor), red
- 1 ea. HEI ignition module
- 1 ea. Tachometer "noise filter" circuit (used/"take-off" component from a Corvette)
- 8 ea. (1 set) Accel 8.8mm #8033 universal ignition wires, yellow insulation
- 8 ea. (1 set) MSD #8849 180 degree angled HEI distributor boots with "dual crimp" terminals
- 8 ea. (1 set) AC Delco FR5LS 5614106 spark plugs (gapped @ 0.045)
- 1 ea. MasterPro #2-5313 vacuum advance canister module
- 1 ea. BB15C 12VDC 80A continuous duty (normally "open") 4 terminal solenoid; replaced the White-Rodgers
70-111226-5 that was on the trike when I bought it, didn't record the mileage at the time
- 1 ea.
White-Rodgers 70-111226-5 12VDC (normally "open") continuous duty 3 terminal solenoid; replaced the BB15C unit above at 29,627 miles
- 1 ea. Universal ignition key switch, multiple position
- 1 ea. 5 terminal starter relay 30 Amp

Crankshaft/Alternator Pulley Belt
- 1 ea. Duralast 10A0800 15315 V-Belt (had a
Dayton 2L381 3vx315 31.5" O.D. lawn mower belt, but it was a little too large)
- 1 ea. Gates Racing 9325HD V-Belt (at 27,102 miles)

Fuel Delivery System
- Carburetor Mike Stage II rebuild of an Edelbrock 1901 carburetor (original was traded for core/resale by Mike); September - November 2015
- 3/8" I.D. standard rubber fuel hose (replaced all lines), approximately 6 ft. total
- 1 ea. Carter P4070 electric fuel pump (72 GPH @ 4-6 PSI, no regulator required, 3/8" dia inlet/outlet)
- 1 ea. Spectre Racing 4700 Dual Throttle Return Spring Kit, Chrome
- 1 ea. 2001 H-D Dyna Wide Glide FXDWG throttle cable brass pin (crimp-type "barrel"/"cam" for throttle cable end on hand grip)

Crank Ventilation
- 1 ea. PCV valve 2088 (replaced with FRAM FV191)
- 1 ea. chrome 1.25 inch push-in valve cover breather cap (replaced with Spectre 42859 1.25" push-in breather with open filter)

- 1 ea. Motion Pro 46 AC (46" long with 16mm top nut) Speedometer Cable for Harley Dresser/FX Sportster (WP-70-660135 / 66-0135)
- 1 ea. Speedometer Drive Unit (2240:60 ratio) designed for Harley-Davidson Softail (OEM 67125-86A) 3/4" axle and 16" wheel with MT90B-16 tire or 130/90/16 tire
- 1 ea. Blackfoot Motor Sports 671107 Universal Speedometer Cable Core kit

- 1 set R&R Chassis 8460 Pinion Seal and Crush Sleeve (Chevy 12-bolt pickup truck application)

- 2 ea. (repair) welded busted/split in half body tilt hinges
- 2 ea. Replaced original (busted/literally shredded) body tilt hollow roll pins with 9/16" dia. x 3" long clevis pins w/drilled ends for cotter pins
- 2 ea. Harley-Davidson DOT DP99 SAE Deuce Bullet turn signal lenses, clear (originals were cracked and yellowed by age)
- 2 ea. Harley-Davidson DOT DP99 SAE Deuce Bullet turn signal lenses, amber (originals were cracked, and scuffed as if by sandpaper)

- 2 sets Timken LM11949 & LM11910 cup and cone wheel bearings (@ 27,735 miles)
- 1 ea. Bridgestone Spitfire 11R 67H 130/90-16MC tire (@ 27,735 miles)

Shift Boot
- 1 ea. BMM-80668 B&M Megashifter Shift Boot

- 91 Octane only (93 if available), prefer Shell or Chevron
- Gunk Motor Medic DOT 5 M4011 silicone-based brake fluid
- Royal Purple 5W30 Synthetic Blend motor oil
- Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic Blend motor oil (changed from 5W30 to 10W40 at 27,102 miles)
- Valvoline Dexron VI Full Synthetic transmission fluid
- 13/16" -16 UNF 5.25 Oil Filter
- 13/16" -16 UNF 5.25 Oil Filter (Royal Purple 30-1218 at 27,102 miles)

Cylinder Head Bolts Tightened (65 ft-lbs / 88 nm TQ)- 30,472 miles

Radiator Flush/Coolant Change

Brake Fluid Flush/Change (front and rear)
- 23,331 miles

Air Filter and Pre-Filter/Bonnet Cleaned (and air filter re-oiled)
- 32,729 mies

Engine Oil Change
- 23,331 miles
- 27,102 miles (odometer is off by about -100 miles because of previously broken speedometer cable; actual mileage closer to 27,202)
- 31,600 miles (31,700 actual)
- 33,419 miles (31,519 actual)

Differential Oil Change
- 23,400 miles +/-

Transmission Hydraulic Oil Change

Transmission Cooler Flush/Oil Change

Fuel Filter Change
- December 2014: 1 ea. HLY-162-523 Holly Chrome Inline Fuel Filter
- August 2015: 1 ea. Spectre Racing Magna Kool inline fuel filter #2379, chrome (for the auxiliary fuel cell supply line to the engine)
- November 2015: 1 ea. Trans-Dapt Performance TRD-9245 inline glass and chrome fuel filter, 3/8" in 3/8" out hose barbs (x2): one for the main feed, and one for the auxiliary tank)

- Primary fuel tanks: 4 gallons each (constructed as a single 8 gallon unit); road-tested to 7.45 gallons, with a little to spare
- Auxiliary fuel cell: 4 gallons; road-rested to exactly 3.042 useable gallons
- MPG: 16 city/16 freeway

Operational Ranges
- Voltage: 10 - 11v at startup, 13 - 14v while running (gauge/sending unit is a little off, charging system has been tested and works as it should)
- Oil pressure: 25 to 75 (closer to 25 at idle and 75 at speed; 40 - 50 is about average)
- Water temperature: 150F to 210F (depends upon ambient air temperature and traffic; 180 - 190 is about average)


Dress-Up and Minor Modifications I've Made:

- 1 ea. King Cobra billet 7" dia x 9" long Headlight 55/60W H-4 [achd7x9]
- 1 ea. 1-0022BHCA Headlight Mount (Bullet/Rocket) Boss Hoss Trees, Aimable, Chrome

- 2 ea. Drag Specialties Flane Stem Oval Touring Mirrors 0640-0529

Front Master Brake Cylinder
- 1 ea. Chrome Specialties 130017 Gold Eagle Spirit H/Bar master cylinder cover (replaces Harley-Davidson OEM 42381-87 & 45004)

- Spectre #42859 valve cover crank case breather cap, chrome with white filter, 1-1/4" dia. push-in type, 3-1/4" overall height

Fuel Delivery System
- 20 ft. of braided copper 3/8" fuel line (replaced existing fuel system, and extended front tank cross-over around the rear of the tank, and added plumbing so the auxiliary fuel cell can be used)
- 36 ea. (6 packs of 6 pcs) Custom Chrome/CCI slotted 3.8" hose clamps #270606
- 1 ea. K&N #62-1600RD crank case vent breather, 3/8", red element, chrome, for auxiliary tank rollover/breather line
- 1 ea. 3/8" to 3/8" male to male barbed splicer/adapter (for attaching the K&N air filter to the auxiliary tank rollover line)
- 1 ea. UPR #H5032-25 10mm (3/8" inlet to 3/8" outlet) non-return one-way check valve (for the auxiliary tank breather line)
- 1 ea. -8AN female to 3/8" male reducer, 180 degree, silver stainless steel fitting (to attach the breather line to the auxiliary tank)
- 1 ea. -8AN female to 3/8" barbed male reducer, aluminum (for attaching the out-going fuel line to the auxiliary tank)
- 1 ea. UP-07001-2 3/8" to 3/8" Honda motorcycle petcock (to serve as an emergency shutoff on the fuel line from the auxiliary tank)
- 2 ea. PRE-60829E -8AN male flare "bulkhead" block-off caps, nickel-plated aluminum (to cap off the extra threaded openings that won't be used on the auxiliary fuel tank)
- 1 ea. Standard T-Series FV1T 3-way fuel selector valve, #V15092 (for tying the auxiliary fuel system into the main fuel system)
- 1 ea. 6-terminal double-throw (on-on) "pre-wired" fuel tank selector toggle switch (to electronically switch between fuel tanks)
- 1 ea. stainless steel dual-hole toggle switch mounting panel
- 1 ea. inline 1 amp fuse (required to protect the 3-way fuel selector circuit)
- 18 gauge primary wire and end terminals (for connecting the toggle switch and 3-way selector circuit)
- 1 ea. 3/8" to 3/8" stainless steel U-fitting (necessary because of the "T" configuration of the 3-way fuel selector valve)
- 1 ea. JAZ Products #340-200-06 IHRA/IMCA/SCCA approved 4" dia. flush-mount vented fuel cell cap, "positive-lock", red
- 1 ea. Summit Racing #290194-0 flush-mount fuel cap O-Ring gasket, rubber
- 1 ea. Honda Motorcycle 6mm (1/4") dia. 76mm anodized alloy fuel filter (for the front fuel tank vent line), gold
- 2 ea. 5/16" stainless steel marine "D-Ring" captive pin/chain rigging shackles (to replace the fasteners that connect the front-end of the main fuel tank to the frame)

Ignition System
- 16/set MSD 8 - 8.5mm plug wire spacer kit #8841 (fits Accel 8.8mm wires)

Air Intake
- 1 ea. Mr. Gasket 9868 air cleaner wing nut
- 1 ea. Route 66 Mods Billet CNC machined aircraft aluminum hot air delete/block-off plate w/gasket and 2 Allen key bolts
- 1 ea. Route 66 Mods Billet CNC machined aircraft aluminum EGR delete/block-off plate w/gasket and 2 Allen key bolts

Cooling System (Water)
- Spectre 7770 Magna Kool 12 inch radiator hose kit with polished end covers, stainless steel/chrome
- Mr. Gasket 2661 chrome 15-degree water neck (thermostat housing) with standard gasket (will also accept rubber O-ring if desired)

- 1 pr. Kuryakyn 1611014 SwingWing pegs w/Harley type male mounts, Chrome
- 1 ea. (modified) Mustang two-way adjustable (forward or rearward) front seat back rest
- 1 pr. Emgo Universal "O-Ring" highway pegs w/1.5 inch dia. collars (mounted on the forward crash bar)


A few other minor repairs have been made, but they included generic electrical wiring and terminal pieces, new fuel line (hoses), and a little bit of welding and some other rework that did not require any parts replacement.

I will add "unknown" component details once I've identified them.

As of yesterday, 03 March 2015, the trike has seen a combined total of 3 weeks' road time since 08 December 2014. It currently shows 24,269 miles. The rest of the time was spent in limbo awaiting repairs.

The trike has not been on a dyno since I purchased it, but I have been told that engine output at the crank is 385 HP. No idea whether that's true. Haven't been given an estimate on the torque output. Would like to dyno it one day, just for giggles.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Speedometer cable update: the replacement braided steel cable assembly was the right length, but the internal core was about an inch and a half too short. It would work until I hit a bump in the road then stop working. Very intermittent.

I bought a new core and some speedometer cable grease and trimmed it to the length I needed. Works great now! Will post the DIY core part number info later.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've added a front inline banjo bolt/brake light switch. Works perfectly every time! No more wondering if my brake lights won't shut off!

I have also added a seat back/rest (thank you Paul H)! It tilts backward at just the right angle. The seat design puts the back rest up a little high, right where I need it: mid back, at the shoulder blades! Riding is a luxury now!

It's great to be back on the road!

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hoss Has Highway Pegs!

I couldn't make up my mind which highway pegs might be best (re-use the shovel-shaped Kuryakyn boards I took off, or buy any of a number of pegs with heel supports). I decided to go with a basic set of cylindrical pegs. My rolling recliner should be that much nicer! Just put them on a few minutes ago! Can't wait to try them out!

Will add part numbers later, in case anyone else might find them worthy of purchase. I paid $45 plus shipping. High? Low? Don't know. Seemed reasonable considering how much everything else costs on this beast.


881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Possible Future Seat Replacement

Sooner or later I'll be in the market for a replacement seat. I am configuring the main fuel tank for quick release from the front, but I cannot swing it upward/back without also tilting the body, because the current seat (pictured below) sits on top of the tank.

I figure if I can find a seat that is short enough and narrow enough up front, the tank can bypass the seat without having to tilt the body.

I don't know if a Harley-Davidson FXWG (Wide Glide) seat will work (also pictured below), but it looks mighty close.

I'm not in the market for a seat right now. Too many other items to address first. But I'll keep this stashed here for future reference.


881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Spectre Flexible Water Hose

I can think of a thousand other things I would rather have done with the Hoss. Working with that Spectre radiator hose in 8 inches of cramped space was NOT fun! Next time I'll forego the headaches and install an old school braided steel hose. The Spectre was just too much work for too little reward.

A swiveling 90 degree water neck (Allstar Performance part #AL30170) would have made the installation a world easier, as it could have significantly reduced or even eliminated one of the bends. It would also have eased the installation of the left side water neck bolt. I didn't know they existed until last night. Live and learn. As installed, those enormous chrome hose ends were tough to maneuver on the turns. They needed to be pushed out of the way until after the rubber components were set, and then slid over the top of them.

Though I have no plans to ever mess with one of these contraptions again, I can still see a swiveling 90 degree water neck being an asset no matter what radiator hose I choose when (or if ?) this one wears out.


881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rust Neutralizer

One of these days I need to hit those rusted fuel tank mounting points with some rust neutralizer and black paint. Right now they're bright rusty red where the black clear coat peeled off.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Fuel Tank Quick Release, Auxiliary Fuel Tank, and Braided Copper Lines Installed!

Hoss has been living in the stall for a little over a month, as I've researched, asked questions, and gathered information, and parts and supplies I've needed to:

- Rig up a quick-release system for the front fuel tanks
- Hook up the auxiliary fuel cell and get it working
- Install braided copper fuel line (because I like the looks)

Details on parts used are listed in the (edited/expanded) original post further below.


881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fuel Pump Replaced

Out with the Airtex E8012S (30 GPH @ 5-9 PSI - no regulator installed), and in with the Carter P4070 (72 GPH @ 4-6 PSI - no regulator required).

The first photo, showing the Airtex fuel pump (barely noticeable), was taken in December 2014, right after I bought the Hoss.


881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Refreshed Distributor Components

The tachometer bounces around more than it did before, at least around idle (I'll fiddle with the tach's wire on the distributor cap later). Other than that, I don't notice any difference with the way it starts or runs. No change is better than a bad change. Will see how it behaves on the road. Looks a lot better if nothing else.


8,619 Posts
I for one am very impressed with all the preventive maintenance you have been doing to you machine . I bought my bike new in 2000 and have done the same things and more over the years that you are doing to my bike to make it as bullet proof as possible. There is very little on my bike that is the same as it was when it left the factory . It is a joy to be able to ride my bike anywhere and not have to worry what's next . Keep up the good work , you won't regret the time and $$$$$


881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I for one am very impressed with all the preventive maintenance you have been doing to you machine . I bought my bike new in 2000 and have done the same things and more over the years that you are doing to my bike to make it as bullet proof as possible. There is very little on my bike that is the same as it was when it left the factory . It is a joy to be able to ride my bike anywhere and not have to worry what's next . Keep up the good work , you won't regret the time and $$$$$

I certainly appreciate the feedback, though I must admit I'm still in suffer mode. The new distributor components have caused more issues (backfiring and rough idling). I am as meticulous as I can be with things, and I take plenty of before and after pic's for comparisons, so this one has me a little confused and irritated. Had to turn around and abandon my trip to work. Inspected and played around with it some but no love from Hossy. Ended up hoofing it on my own two for work. Car went tits-up yesterday. It's the cosmos, I tell ya! The cosmos! It's out to get me! Or I'm just a really bad DIY mechanic... either way.

Anyhoo, mucho appreciation. I can't wait until I can ride this thing without puckering up so tight I could crush walnuts!

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Old distributor cap and rotor are back on the Hoss.

Kept the new rotor and ignition module. They're working fine.

Ordered a replacement MSD distributor cap. Will get rid of the TSP one I just bought. It's defective.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hoss Hates Brass Terminals

The $45 brass terminal MSD distributor cap with plug wire hold-downs didn't work well either. Lots of hesitation and a rough idle, and bouncy tachometer needle again, even after making sure everything was locked down tight.

The old aluminum terminal cap is back on the Hoss once again, and she's running nice and smooth.

So, after being out $80 on two different brass terminal distributor caps, I am convinced this Hoss simply does not like brass terminals. I thought it was Chinese parts it didn't like but nope, it's actually brass.

She looks great, but she's ghetto. High maintenance but low class. White trash Ho, I mean Hoss. HAHAHAHAHA!!!

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So much for that idea. Now the Hoss is balking at the old cap. Thinking I've been chasing the wrong thing, though it is clear to me it's not liking the brass for whatever reason.

Something else going on for sure. Anyway, I've been howling about it in about another half dozen other threads, so I'll leave it at that until I can figure it all out.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I feel like I'm losing my mind without my ride. Hoss has been down for a little over a month because of a handful of repairs. I'll be glad when I can finally stop tinkering on this thing out of necessity and just do it for fun.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Received my Carburetor Mike Stage II rebuild (thank you Paul H). It's installed but will remain untested for a bit, as I've discovered a cracked T-fitting in the rear brake line. I won't take a chance with that, and a patch repair is out of the question. A replacement T is on the way from Drag Specialties. Decided to go with steel instead of brass. I didn't think to buy a battery tender, either. The trike is a doornail from sitting. Heheheh! That's the way it goes, I guess. Riding will be one hell of a pleasure once I finally get to do it again!

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Battery's not dead after all. Turns out a replacement part I installed didn't work as intended (remote solenoid). So I put the old remote kill solenoid back on. New problem now, for reasons unknown: there appears to be a short in the primary ignition switch or the wiring. Power remains applied even when the key is turned off and removed from the switch. The only way I can cut the power is by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.

881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Primary electrical issues resolved. The immediate issues turned out to be a bad ignition switch and a bad continuous duty solenoid (kill solenoid?) The bad unit was a 3-terminal and the replacement a 4-terminal. The replacement didn't work until I bridged one of the small terminals with the large B side terminal according to a 2008 thread I found here. Worked like a charm.

Now to get it on the road after the rear brake line is repaired and see if any prior electrical issues linger (bouncing tachometer) and perhaps any electrical issues that might have been contributing to a hot engine/high speed hesitation/cut-out problem I was having. Hopefully my Carburetor Mike rebuild resolved that, and it was fuel related instead of electrical. We shall soon see.
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