Gaston 2005 502
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Thread: Gaston 2005 502

  1. #1
    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    Default Gaston 2005 502

    Purchased 5/3/07 @ Lima Auto Mall with 2700 miles on it. Got it home and put 850 miles on it in 12 days around area, back to work.

    5/13 Had 2 slight misses one night and next morning replaced spark plugs with same AC Delco's gapped @ .035. (2 existing plugs were @ .040 & .042) Checked distributor cap and had slight corrosion on contacts inside of cap. Replaced with Borg Warner Select, cap and rotor. brass inserts No More Miss.

    Noticed rear brake pads thin, to order during work trip.

    Ordered Adjustable timing light and vacuum advance can as per recomendation.
    Darryl Campbell

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    Senior Member Chris's Avatar
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    Gaston 2005 502,

    I also have an '05 502. Consider pads from Lyndall Racing Brakes for your bike. I just put them on mine and so far they're excellent! Very, very little dust. Sweeeet!

    You'll need (2) part # 7138-Z for the front and (1) part # 7174-Z for the rear.

    Here's a link: http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...de-victory.htm

    Some others use them also. Check out this thread: https://www.v8bikeriders.com/viewtopi...ght=brake+dust

    Chris

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    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    Chris,

    I do appreciate the reply, post and link. I will be ordering a set of the pads you have listed, i just won't get to use them for a while as I recently had to go back to work overseas. So how long have you had your bike? Purchased new or used? Ever any issues? How many miles now on it? Do you also have the factory Q-jet on yours? From your pic of it it looks great. I have been reading constantly on this site since I found it and it really great that so many good people post, reply and advise on all types of issues. Makes possible issues be resolved with much less effort. I'll be trying. This is my first BH and as I have stated before I need plastic surgery to be able to remove the smile from my face from it. It's been a 7 year dream, that has finally come true for my ownership of it. I got a reply yesterday from the previous owner Rodger @ Lima Auto Mall and he said the timing was set by his mechanic at the shop when they received the bike when new. As stated I am still getting used to the power, but still learning of it. Ordered my adj. timing light and vacuum advance kit and will play around with that some when i get home in a few months and possibly some mod's to the carb. In my younger age as stated previously, i could work on Q-jets and basically felt comfortable doing that, but i was lost on A double pump holly i tried once and went back to Q-jet. One post on my mpg thread stated one bro had great improvements with a specific holly, i looked it up and it sounded good, and i may end up going that direction, if Q-jet doesn't satisfy me. I still am hesitant of a full on throttle whack, due to my in experience of BH's. It's is something I will have to build up too. Yesterday i added up my gas receipts and checked mileage and it appeared slightly better than i thought, about 14.5 mpg. Much better than the 8 - 12 I thought i was getting.

    Regards,

    Darryl
    Darryl Campbell

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    Darryl,

    You're right in there where you should be without the vacuum advance hooked up. No worries mate!

    Chris


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    Senior Member Chris's Avatar
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    Darryl,

    I agree this site is a goldmine of BH info. The knowledge some of these guys have developed never ceases to amaze me. Anytime you have an issue, just remember to search this site first. You'll almost always find someone else has already figured it out.

    I bought my bike new from Mountain BH in December 2005. It's my first BH also. It has almost 5000 miles on it now with no major issues. Yes, it has the factory Q-jet without the vacuum advance, though I may add it too after reading about it. Where did you order the adj. timing light and vacuum advance kit from?

    I've added just a couple of minor mods to mine, most of which came from this site: radiator overflow tank (https://www.v8bikeriders.com/viewtopi...=overflow+tank) the plastic tank discussed by LaMonster; better horn; Lyndall brake pads; and a battery quick-disconnect (for indoor shows). I also recently had to replace the rear brake light switch (NAPA part # SL134) and clean and lubricate the front brake light switch mechanism (brake lights were stuck on).

    As far as MPG goes, I get about 16 or so combined around town. I think it would be close to 20 highway only. Running in 1st gear just kills it.

    Like everyone here I love this machine! And that big block sound and rough idle is intoxicating.

    Will you be stateside again in time for the rally? I'm making my reservations this week.

    Chris

  8. #6
    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    Chris,

    I got the vacuum advance part #'s from the thread " Finally got it" from Redtro Ricky. Here's the p/n #'s:

    1.) CRN-99600-1
    ( Distributor Advance Vacuum Adjustable, GM, HEI, Kit, $29.95) comes with vacuum can and 3 sets distributor springs

    Timing light, i just chose what i thought adequate, as follows:

    2.) SUM-G1059
    (Timing Light, Advance Dial, Adjusts 0 to 60 Degrees, Xenon Bulb, Inductive Pickup, Detachable Leads $50.95)

    http://www.summitracing.com/


    Doubtful to make the rally as I basically never can plan anything, always something coming up with work, but it pays the bills and provides for toys. You spoke something in your reply which I was unaware of. You stated with "no" vacuum advance from the factory. As i can't see mine right now so i am unsure of this, this is the way all come from the factory? I had the tank unbolted in back and loose in front to change distributor cap and rotor, but did not look at carb, or side of distributor, other than turning the cap locks I guess for future access and info when i work on my bike with disassembly of side panels, seat etc., i will take pictures, as i always have my computer at work, for my personal info. Did you have a issue of radiator spitting back at you, reason for overflow can? Rodger (previous owner) stated he had not had issue with this, but South Texas is sometimes an oven. No issues yet though with radiator spitting. Will be interesting to add vacuum adv and check timing upon return. As you stated if problems occur, usually someone else has already had the same and to just review threads. I think i have read a major portion of this whole board, and when something really interesting is found i copy it to my "Boss Hoss Wisdom of others" file for review later, and this has really helped so far. Also found a good site from here about info for crate motors,

    Displacement: 502 cubic inches
    Horsepower: 502 @ 5200 RPM
    Torque: 567 @ 4200 RPM
    Max. Rec. RPM: 5800 rpm
    Fuel: Premium Unleaded 92 Octane
    Spark Plugs: #4 Rapid Fire Gap .035, R43XLS Gap .035
    Ignition Timing: 8° BTDC @ 800 RPM, 36° Total @ 5,000 RPM.
    Engine Block: Cast Iron, Four Bolt Main Caps (P/N 10237292)
    Bore & Stroke: 4.47” x 4.00”
    Comp. Ratio: 9.6:1
    Crankshaft: Forged Steel (P/N 10183723)
    Connecting Rods: Forged Steel, Shot peened, 7/16” bolts (P/N 10198922)
    Piston: Forged Aluminum (P/N 12533507)
    Piston Rings: (P/N 12524293)
    Camshaft: Hydraulic roller (P/N 12366543) Lift: .527” I, .544” E. Duration @ .050” 224° I, 234° E.
    Cylinder Heads: Cast Aluminum Oval Port 110cc Combustion Chambers (P/N 12363390)
    Intake Valve: 2.25” Stainless Steel (P/N 12366987)
    Exhaust Valve: 1.88” Stainless Steel (P/N 1236698
    Valve Springs: (P/N 12462970)
    Valve Lash: Zero
    Rocker Arm: 1.7:1 (P/N 12368082)
    Intake Manifold: Aluminum Holley flange (P/N 12363407)
    Carburetor: Holley 850 cfm (P/N 12366996)
    Distributor: HEI (P/N 93440806)
    Starter: Gear Reduction (P/N 9000852)
    Water Pump: Aluminum (P/N 14058915)
    Timing Chain: Single Roller (P/N 3891519)
    Technical Notes:
    • The ZZ 502/502 is not intended for marine use, and should only be used in 1976 and earlier pre- emissions street vehicles or any year off road vehicles.
    • Do not use bolt sealer on head bolts because they have blind bolt holes.
    • Distributor (P/N 93440886 or 88961867) or melonized distributor gear (P/N 10456413) must be used on all crate engines with steel camshafts.

    http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/

    Really some informative info on the above listed site. Once again i appreciate your info & replies, as well as from all.

    Darryl
    Darryl Campbell

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    Senior Member Chris's Avatar
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    Darryl,

    Thanks for the info. Yes, I did have a slight problem with the radiator puking on hot days if the engine was shut off while temp was over 200 degrees. It didn't puke very much coolant, but it was more of an aggravation and embarrassment when you pulled in somewhere and everyone gathered to look at the bike. I really like the plastic bottle instead of the billet set-ups some guys run. For one thing mine cost about $12 including the fuel line I used to connect it, rather than $200-$300 some of the billet ones cost. Also, it's hidden and doesn't mess up the lines of the bike or create problems if you install highway pegs -- clean and simple -- that's how I like it.

    Sorry you won't make the rally. Last year was my first and I had a great time even with the bad weather and tragic death of Gordon Beck on the first day. Hopefully this year will be even better.

    Chris

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    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Being unable to see my carb and distributor first hand & from my misinterpretation of information, vacuum advance issue will be at the distributor and not at carburetor, other than supply of vacuum from carb to distributor. Time for me to read more, & more.

    Darryl
    Darryl Campbell

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    Super Moderator Adrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaston 2005 502
    Chris,

    Being unable to see my carb and distributor first hand & from my misinterpretation of information, vacuum advance issue will be at the distributor and not at carburetor, other than supply of vacuum from carb to distributor. Time for me to read more, & more.

    Darryl
    Darryl

    When you use the vacuum advance kit (Crane) you will need to use the limiter on Big Blocks. The reason the limiter is needed is, with out it, the advance will be allowed advance to far and can cause a problem. You don't want the advance in the vacuum advance to advance More that 10 degrees. Small blocks can handle as much as 15 degrees and some times more.

    Adrian




    God understands our prayers even when we can't find the words to say them

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    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    Adrian,

    Thanks for the post. Any and all information is appreciated. I read more on the info of the advance can kit ordered and a limiter is attached to this can, so that will help. I'll be doing some more reading and adding to my plan until my return. Once again your post is appreciated.


    1.) 8-4-2007, returned from work, replaced rear brake pads, battery dead, PC 625, Warranty upgrade to Oddessy PC925MJT. No Brake lights, since I'm electrically challenged after aggrevation loaded up and hauled to mark @ Houston Boss Hoss. Rear Brake switch replaced and front switch was sticking, sprayed with spray silicone & freed up. Bought new full sized ramp for loading.

    2.) 8-10-2007 Installed new K&N Air Filter E-3240 is the filter & extreme lid. 66-0901 is the extreme lid that I cut the outside off to fit the filter diameter. 2500 was too tall. Still had to modify part of extreme lid to clear tank tunnel. Also had to modify Cheesy filter base to fit K&N filter diameter.

    3.) 8-19-2007 installed Siron Plug Wires & MSD Ignition Module with Rev Limiter from Summit. Summit PN MSD-83645 {Unsure if I actually like the Siron Wires as they are actually not as thick as they look. They are a thick cover slipped over a plug wire. Will try for a while until they aggrevate me.}Bought 1/2 inch longer stainless screws to be able to make BH Looms work with the Siron Plug Wires

    4.) 8-26-2007 Changed anti-freeze, Checked for thermostat, there was none, installed a 160 degree from Napa and 6 bottles of water wetter (hindsight brain fart for incorrect amount) and new anti-freeze. Install of the 165 thermostat Actually brought my temperature up slightly, So I removed the thermostat on 8-27-2007 We'll see with the Texas hot weather.
    5.) 9-10-2007 modified Q-jet as per Carburetor Mike's recommendations with different secondary rod hanger, 73 primary jets and 53 primary rods, larger diameter cup shortened accelerator pump. Choke was already removed from the factory & the secondary butterflies were already modified.
    6.) 9-12-2007 installed vacuum advance can on distributor and connected to manifold vacuum. set advance limiter at 5th notch. springs for all in at 2800rpm, 6 turns on the allen screw in the adv. can and set timing dial up at 36 degrees at 3000rpm. Had no view of bolt on chevrolet pointer mark, so i estimated location of mark to align with mark on harmonic balance for correct timing. Then asked Adrian where the mark is on the timing pointer,,, turns out i'm about 1/8 inch away from where timing mark should be. Runs Good and starts good. & still has good idle. Temperature stays about 170 at night, and with the hot texas heat a little higher during the day. During a 10 to 20 mph cruise in a local riders parade, on a hot day never got above about 175. Then had to go to work. Will re-adjust upon return. Bought all motor and trans oil for complete oil change after about 800 miles upon my return home. Need to order a rear tire.

    Darryl
    Darryl Campbell

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    Veteran Member HossZZ4's Avatar
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    Default 6 bottles of water wetter?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaston 2005 502
    Adrian,

    Thanks for the post. Any and all information is appreciated. I read more on the info of the advance can kit ordered and a limiter is attached to this can, so that will help. I'll be doing some more reading and adding to my plan until my return. Once again your post is appreciated.


    1.) 8-4-2007, returned from work, replaced rear brake pads, battery dead, PC 625, Warranty upgrade to Oddessy PC925MJT. No Brake lights, since I'm electrically challenged after aggrevation loaded up and hauled to mark @ Houston Boss Hoss. Rear Brake switch replaced and front switch was sticking, sprayed with spray silicone & freed up. Bought new full sized ramp for loading.

    2.) 8-10-2007 Installed new K&N Air Filter E-3240 is the filter & extreme lid. 66-0901 is the extreme lid that I cut the outside off to fit the filter diameter. 2500 was too tall. Still had to modify part of extreme lid to clear tank tunnel. Also had to modify Cheesy filter base to fit K&N filter diameter.

    3.) 8-19-2007 installed Siron Plug Wires & MSD Ignition Module with Rev Limiter from Summit. Summit PN MSD-83645 {Unsure if I actually like the Siron Wires as they are actually not as thick as they look. They are a thick cover slipped over a plug wire. Will try for a while until they aggrevate me.}

    4.) 8-26-2007 Changed anti-freeze, Checked for thermostat, there was none, installed a 160 degree from Napa and 6 bottles of water wetter and new anti-freeze. This Actually brought my temperature up slightly, So I removed the thermostat on 8-27-2007 We'll see with the Texas hot weather.

    Darryl
    Isnt one bottle of water wetter and a coupla cap fulls enough for your radiator? See use directions on page 2 of whitepaper below...

    http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf

    My 2004 manual states that the small block radiator is 12-16 quarts, so that takes 1x12 ounce bottle of water wetter and a bit more.

    See specs from my 2004 manual....
    S/B Radiator 12 qts BB 14.5 qts


    Just curious
    Aldo

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    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    Aldo,

    Sometimes brain farts don't entirely seep in until someone else points them out. :shock: Thanks, no seriously. At the time i guess i was under the impression a little is good,,, more is better. Guess i get to be the Guinea pig. We'll see.

    Darryl
    Darryl Campbell

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    Veteran Member Clint44's Avatar
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    Another tip is to run as little antifreeze as needed for freeze protection. Pure water is a much better coolant than a 50/50 mix of water & antifreeze. In my ZR-1 Corvettes (alum LT5 engine),I ran 100% water with two bottles of WaterWetter and a 160deg stat.
    Clint & Sherry Hooper
    2006 57 Chevy Boss Hoss trike (sold)

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