Boss Hoss belt alignment Help!
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Thread: Boss Hoss belt alignment Help!

  1. #1
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    Default Boss Hoss belt alignment Help!

    A good friend of mine has a 2001(i think) boss hoss zz4 motorcycle, I owned a motorcycle shop for the last 6 years but i only work on metric bikes. He brought the bike over because it had belt squealing badly after 30 min of riding and I owe him a favor. I have read every post I could find and the belt is tracking WAY off. And i am having trouble aligning the bike with my usual methods from sport bikes.

    The belt is rubbing HARD on the inside of the front pulley; first i tried moving the front pulley in a 1/8 inch. It was still rubbing hard. In order to get it to track in the center the rear wheel had to be cocked to the side and the belt was tracking hard on the inside of the rear pulley. It looks like the motor\trans needs to be rotated counter clock wise to compensate. I shimmed the bottom motor mounts one washer on each side and it did not seem to move the motor much, This helped and now I can get the belt to track in the center of the rear and just barley touch the inside of the front, but the tire is still not in line with the front from what i can tell. Then i noticed there are upper motor mounts but they do not seem to be slotted or adjustable, what is the proper procedure for shimming the motor.

    2ed any tips on aligning the front and rear tire. The sting method won't work with it on jack stands and on the lift. And my laser tool does not have a clear line of sight.

    I'm guessing get the tires lined up and then keep shimming the motor Trans until the belts tracks in the center of the rear and not touching the sides of the front? This just seems like a long trial and error process to get aligned. The bike has 10k miles on it btw.
    And how can this thing get that far off in 10k miles? Is this common.

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    Veteran Member CarlLaFong's Avatar
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    Check the swing arm bushings
    IT'S POSSIBLE, THAT THE ONLY REASON FOR YOUR EXISTENCE, IS TO SERVE AS A WARNING TO OTHERS


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    Veteran Member V8GRUMPY's Avatar
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    Unless the bike has been wrecked and the frame twisted - do not shim the motor or trans to align belt. All belt alignment is done by adjusting rear wheel and front sprocket. As Carl mentioned the swingarm bushing could be bad but at 10,000 miles I doubt it. The front sprockets are usually set so that the end of the shaft from trans is about 1/16" inside the center of pulley. I would get the rear of the bike up on jack stands - loosen the adjusting bolts - remove the top covers to reveal the tension bolts (4) and loosen them - now you can move the wheel to get it fairly straight in the swing arm continue to adjust the rear bolts evenly until you get about 300# belt tension - start the bike and let it idle in gear on the stands watch the belt alignment and adjust the bolts to center it up on the rear pulley - once it runs in the center take a look at the front - if it is not centered you need to move the front pulley in or out the appropriate amount to center it - then recheck the rear alignment again with it running. It takes very little adjust ment to move belt, like 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Maybe Adrian will jump in and explain his laser alignment technique - I have never done it but I do it the old way and it has worked on mine for 10 years.

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    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    Go to Wags help site http://bosshosshelp.com and look under shocks and pulleys for Adrian's laser alignment technique .
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Thanks guys, The swingarm bushings are in good shape, The Front pully has around 1/8 in of the shaft proturding from the center It looks like i can get a little more without rubbing the trans case, It is on jackstands now, The belt is running true in the center of the rear pulley but still barley touching the front inside, But the tire is off by a good 1/2 inch or so. Ill try to move the front pulley in some more and see if i have enough to get the tire running straight.

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    Veteran Member buyarbi's Avatar
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    To get the laser to work I used an engine hoist with the strap wraped around the handlebars and front forks to hold it upright. You can then use a laser level proped up against the rear tire and shining tward front. . With front tire as straight as you can get it, use ruler at some point on front tire front under axle and see where laser hits . Move laser to other side of rear tire and measure distance at front tire on that side . Adjust rear tire till laser hits ruler the same distance on both sides.
    On mine and others the gap at the rear axle between the axle and frame where the adjusting bolts are is the same . Measured with a vernier caliper within a couple thousanths of an inch. So now all I do is measure the gap . But do the laser first.
    Then adjust front pully in or out.
    The 2 big bolts holding the tranny to the frame can be loosened and engine and tranny as a unit moved slightly if a bit more is required I didnt have to do this on mine.
    All these manouvers are done with no tention on the belt and bike sitting on the ground.
    This is what I do based on the info I have got from the guys here.
    Bill








    Quote Originally Posted by bugman53 View Post
    Thanks guys, The swingarm bushings are in good shape, The Front pully has around 1/8 in of the shaft proturding from the center It looks like i can get a little more without rubbing the trans case, It is on jackstands now, The belt is running true in the center of the rear pulley but still barley touching the front inside, But the tire is off by a good 1/2 inch or so. Ill try to move the front pulley in some more and see if i have enough to get the tire running straight.

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    Update, I picked up a laser level and aligned the wheels up with no belt tension and then with tension( it is the same both ways, so all the bushings are in good shape), the wheels were WAY off, It was out more than 1 inch at the front tire. After alignment the belt is tracking hard on the inside of the rear and the inside of the front. There is not enough space to move the pulley in enough to make it track, So i looks like i am going to haft to move the motor more to get it tracking. I don't see any way around this, The bike has not been wrecked to my knowledge, I did find it was missing a transmission bolt but i have replaced that before i started trying to get the belt to track. The output shaft of the transmission is just not square with the rear axle. It almost seems like the Frame is twisted. Something is going on here there is no way a bike left the factory this far out of alignment. It has been like this for a while though because the tires wear is very uneven.

    Im trying to get away without pulling the tank but it looks like i am going to haft to, to get clearence to shim the upper motor mounts. the motor was not free to move by shiming the lower mounts it just put tension on them.

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    Update 2, The rear transmission bolts are what are keeping me from aligning the trans, I took the back 2 bolts out with the motor slightly loose and shimmed the motor and sure enough i can get the wheel straight and the belt is tracking in the center of the rear and is finally moving to the center of the front! So I got it figured out where it need to be, But without splitting the frame and machining the rear bolt holes to give me clearance, any ideas how to fix? It looks like the rear cross member is stamped steel with 2 steel sleeves pressed or welded into the piece so I can't slot them with a die grinder because I will loose strength in the sleeve.

    The only other option I see is to shim the front of the motor over to the left but then the upper engine mounts will not align. Humm this is turning out to be a major project!

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    Update 3, I had to oval the rear bolt holes for the transmission out a little to get the motor shimmed where I wanted it, the belt is now tracking pretty good with the belt centered in the front and rear pulley and the tire is straight! The sleeves in the frame for the transmission bolts were thick enough so i did not break through the sides when i ovaled them out. What a project this frame had to be out of spec from the factory.

    Now for a test ride and hopefully the squeal is gone.

    Next project is to add a tach and figure out why the motor wants to die at idle when coming up on stoplights, I'm thinking air leak.

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    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    Maybe the float level is set too high ??
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Veteran Member craig haymaker's Avatar
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    Bugman53, all I can add to this is, that you sound like one heck of a good mechanic ! Where were you when I became "fed up" with similiar issues and finially sold it ? LOL ! Craig

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    Super Moderator Adrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugman53 View Post
    Update 3, I had to oval the rear bolt holes for the transmission out a little to get the motor shimmed where I wanted it, the belt is now tracking pretty good with the belt centered in the front and rear pulley and the tire is straight! The sleeves in the frame for the transmission bolts were thick enough so i did not break through the sides when i ovaled them out. What a project this frame had to be out of spec from the factory.

    Now for a test ride and hopefully the squeal is gone.

    Next project is to add a tach and figure out why the motor wants to die at idle when coming up on stoplights, I'm thinking air leak.
    We have done the oval a few times best to also take the lower bolts out of the front motor mounts and adjust the washers so the frame won't be in a bind. You will see 2 to 4 washers used as spacers.
    However normally you can get the belt aligned with the laser alignment and move the front pulley in or out as we have been doing for some time.

    Adrian





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    Veteran Member SQ4MN's Avatar
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    I don't hear any complaints about the belt squeaking on the later bikes so maybe the factory adjusts them better now before they leave the factory. To me it seems that most all the older Boss Hoss bikes had this problem including my bike. I was lucky and just by aligning the wheels the noise went away. My buddy Mike has been fighting the squeak for 3 years with no luck. He told me recently that he can't stand it any longer, I told him to bring it to Tommy or buy some earplugs for himself and those that ride their bikes anywhere near his.



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    Veteran Member Bryan Ward's Avatar
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    A word of caution using the laser tool. I hope I can explain this properly so it makes sense.

    The tool has a laser beam coming out of the end of it. The beam is not necessarily coming STRAIGHT out the end of it. The beam may quite likely have been installed crooked by the Asian manufacturer. So, you have to use the same side of the tool pressed against the rear tire, not one side of the toll for the right and then the other side of the tool for the left side of the tire.

    A way to check this is to take a measurement with one side of the tool, flip it over and take the same measurement again. I will bet it is not the same.

    Ask me how I know this. I hope I explaned this so it makes sense.

    Bryan



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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Ward View Post
    A word of caution using the laser tool. I hope I can explain this properly so it makes sense.

    The tool has a laser beam coming out of the end of it. The beam is not necessarily coming STRAIGHT out the end of it. The beam may quite likely have been installed crooked by the Asian manufacturer. So, you have to use the same side of the tool pressed against the rear tire, not one side of the toll for the right and then the other side of the tool for the left side of the tire.

    A way to check this is to take a measurement with one side of the tool, flip it over and take the same measurement again. I will bet it is not the same.

    Ask me how I know this. I hope I explaned this so it makes sense.

    Bryan
    Good call, What i did was atach the laser to a level and shimed it so it was centered, Then i fliped the level over to use that same side on both sides of the tire, You are dead on it it was off from side to side.

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    Bike is done and no squealing at all, It tracks like an arrow going down the highway. I did noticed as the bike heated up the belt migrated to the left side of the rear pulley but it's still silent so I'm not touching it.

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    Veteran Member HossZZ4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugman53 View Post
    Bike is done and no squealing at all, It tracks like an arrow going down the highway. I did noticed as the bike heated up the belt migrated to the left side of the rear pulley but it's still silent so I'm not touching it.
    I've run 120,000 miles with belt tracking to the left side, no squeaking. My rear pulley and front pulley doesnt run true so they seem like they flop around.

    Sometimes if I havent aligned it proper it just apply some grease to the side of the belt and its good for a few hundred miles.

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