Overheatin' 57BHTrike - Suggestions???
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Thread: Overheatin' 57BHTrike - Suggestions???

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    Default Overheatin' 57BHTrike - Suggestions???

    I'm brand new to MBF (like this is my 1st post) and am hoping that I can get some suggestions on why my trike tends to overheat. I seem to be having to top off the radiator every few days now. When I do top off, I am adding premixed antifreeze (green). I don't see any leaks and I'm wondering if I'm boiling it off (bad thermostat or bad head gasket or loose head bolts?)? I don't know where to start and was hoping for some suggestions. It is a zz4, 350ci/385hp motor in an 07 trike. Thanks !
    57BHTrike

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    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    Do you have a overflow canister or does it over flow onto the ground ?

    Jack
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Hi Jack -- I have an overflow canister. That is where I do the top-off.

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    Veteran Member HossZZ4's Avatar
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    On my 350, the coolant seems to expand around 180 degrees. I can see it in the sight glass on the side of the canister. If its overfilled, the coolant actually leaks out of the canister. So when the bike reaches 180 degrees (usually at a light), I have a reverse fan switch that I switch on rather than wait until the temp reaches 195 when the fan switch automatically kicks in. Check that you have the right radiator cap...should be 15-16PSI. If the cap is faulty, might see the overheating happen.

    At what temp does your fan kick in? 195, 180, 160?

    Also, you dont need to keep filling the overflow canister. Once the bike has cooled off, you should be able to check the radiator cap to see if coolant is filled to the neck. Thats all you're trying to achieve, keep the air out of the radiator.

    You only need a little coolant in the overflow, to create vacuum to suck overflow coolant back into the radiator. Too much in the can, will force it to overflow at the weakest point, either a hole in the reservoir or the weakest link in the system.

    Check radiator for leaks, check water pump for leaks. Simple stuff first, then we'll troubleshoot the other parts. Good news is that the parts are relatively cheap to replace, i.e thermostats, switches, cap.

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    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    I'd look at the thermostat but look for leaks first .

    Jack
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Veteran Member Clint44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 57BHtrike View Post
    I'm brand new to MBF (like this is my 1st post) and am hoping that I can get some suggestions on why my trike tends to overheat. I seem to be having to top off the radiator every few days now. When I do top off, I am adding premixed antifreeze (green). I don't see any leaks and I'm wondering if I'm boiling it off (bad thermostat or bad head gasket or loose head bolts?)? I don't know where to start and was hoping for some suggestions. It is a zz4, 350ci/385hp motor in an 07 trike. Thanks !
    57BHTrike
    Are you filling it with the key on & water pump running? Or are you filling it with the key off?
    Give me a shout if you want to. My cell is Nine Four Oh 232-4933.
    Clint & Sherry Hooper
    2006 57 Chevy Boss Hoss trike (sold)

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    Veteran Member escortbike's Avatar
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    57BHTrike,

    Start with replacing the radiator cap.

    Escortbike
    Bill Van Sant


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    Veteran Member Gaston 2005 502's Avatar
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    i have found that too much antifreeze will make it run hotter. i now have drained the block & radiator, put one gallon of antifreeze, (NOT 50/50) one container of Purple Ice 16 ounce bottle) and filled the rest with straight water. South Texas Oven weather and i run about 180-190 highway speeds and 190-195 in stop traffic. Also mine did not have a thermostat when i got mine in 07. Hope it helps, keep us posted and let us know. also you can get a radiator pressure tester from Autozone for a deposit and pump the radiator up overnight to see if it is leaking. you can check the cap as well as the engine with radiator, before buying parts that might not need to be replaced. Also some of the more experienced members here may have better suggestions.

    Also welcome to the site.

    Darryl
    Darryl Campbell

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    Also.....check your oil level to make sure the coolant isn't leaking past a gasket and going into the oil pan.

    Don Blixt
    2002 350/385
    Never Say Never


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    Senior Member Toastie's Avatar
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    With 4 years of experience with the BB, my bike is telling me to quit over filling the system.
    It spits out what it dont want or need and it maintains that level without over heating.

    I dont readilly trust every gauge, so i checked it manually.Hottest it has ever run has been a tad under 200 F.

    An old teacher I had reminded me that water boils at 212F. 50/50 mix boils at 240F. When pressurised, it raises the boiling point 3 degrees per 1 pound of pressure with the cap.
    If you have a 15 lb cap.... x3deg. = 45. added to 240= 285 F
    I dont think you are running that hot.

    After that, Id chek the thermostat. It may be sticking open or closed. The next would be a head gasket. Read your oil !

    Hope this helped.
    To all my friends', did you eat your veggies today?
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    when i got my o4 the fan was wired backwards put a piece of paper on front of fan and make sure its sucking in over the motor if not you can reverse the wires to make it work right. looks like the guys covered most of other poss

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    Senior Member Toastie's Avatar
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    OMG !!

    If I dont say sumthin, someone else will.

    Because the bike has a reverse ........................maybe it was just installed in the wrong gear !
    LOL LOL LOL

    Sorry, I just hadda do it.
    However, that is a great point, just like a ceiling fan, It will blow in either direction depending on its wiring.
    To all my friends', did you eat your veggies today?
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    When should the fan kick-in? On mine I think it's somewhere around 175 deg. (per the gauge, which might be quite wrong). I don't ride very hard, and rarely in really hot temps., so I don't see the extremes. I have never seen that gauge over perhaps 185, but the fan runs most of the time even in moderate temps and that might be why. It will kick in within about 10 mins. of a cold start and almost anytime I'm stopped/idling after it's warm. It won't turn off again while I'm underway unless I'm doing about 40 - 50 mph with constant airflow over the engine. When I get much faster than that, with the engine working harder, the fan kicks in again. I don't think this is a bad thing, other than the extra noise and the extra heat being blown back to me when sometimes I don't want it!

    Sorry I Shanghai'd the thread, but it's perhaps OT...

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    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    The ideal temp for a SB is to run at about 180 all the time . Usually you need a 160 degree thermostat to achieve this . The way I have my SB set up is fan on at 210 off at 185 . This way if your running between 180 to say 205 all the time the only time your fan could come on is lets say your sitting in traffic for a while and the temp climbs to 210 but at normal cruising temp of 180 your fan should never come on .

    Jack
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Veteran Member TJzz4's Avatar
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    Napa FS-120 fan switch will move the fan operating range to where you want it.
    Tom Chadwell


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    Veteran Member Clint44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HogV8 View Post
    The ideal temp for a SB is to run at about 180 all the time . Usually you need a 160 degree thermostat to achieve this . The way I have my SB set up is fan on at 210 off at 185 . This way if your running between 180 to say 205 all the time the only time your fan could come on is lets say your sitting in traffic for a while and the temp climbs to 210 but at normal cruising temp of 180 your fan should never come on .
    Jack
    Our trike is set-up the same way,Jack. It has a FS-120 in it.
    Clint & Sherry Hooper
    2006 57 Chevy Boss Hoss trike (sold)

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    Maybe I'll get one of those switches.

    My underlying philosophy is customize what doesn't matter to the max., and if it does matter, "don't fix it if it ain't broke(n)".

    Fairly cool temps. prevailed yesterday as I rode my normal commute 18+ miles each way. This is a mix of highway (meaning 60+ mph - I don't want to self incriminate!), country road at 45 -55, and street riding with stop lights. One neat test is on the way in to work; I get off that highway after 10+ miles of "hauling". (I usually do 60 - 65, sometimes 70, rarely over on that stretch.) I pull off onto the ramp and right up to a traffic light that has me sitting for about 1 minute. That's when it's hot and not moving any air and if it's not already on the fan will invariable start. In the summer with the fan running and the trike stopped, I'm sitting in a blast zone!

    I kept a close eye on the temp. gauge yesterday and it never got more than a needle width over 150 deg. And the fan was running intermittently as expected. mostly on during the evening ride home. I'm guessing that gauge is way off. I don't really care how accurate it is, only that it's consistent...!

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    Default Temp. Update

    Quote Originally Posted by bhelms View Post
    ..I kept a close eye on the temp. gauge yesterday and it never got more than a needle width over 150 deg. And the fan was running intermittently as expected. mostly on during the evening ride home. I'm guessing that gauge is way off. I don't really care how accurate it is, only that it's consistent...!
    Well, now that it got warmer (at least for a couple of days, freezing again around here!) I saw the temp. gauge approaching 180 deg. several times, fan running constantly. So perhaps my gauge isn't so far off after all. I can't reliably predict when the fan will kick-in temp.-wise however, but unless I see that gauge heading high and no fan running I should be OK ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by wade View Post
    when i got my o4 the fan was wired backwards put a piece of paper on front of fan and make sure its sucking in over the motor if not you can reverse the wires to make it work right. looks like the guys covered most of other poss
    Wade, have you ever tried switch the wires to see if there is a direction change?

    I can't be absolutely certain, but these fan motors are a 'shaded pole' motor I believe, and will run in the same direction regardless of wiring. DC circuit loads look for 12 volt source and a load in between, then a solid ground.

    In order to change direction, you'd have to turn the armature around in the stator. Not sure if it's possible in the Boss Hoss fans.

    You can actually buy a sucker fan motor, or a blower fan motor - but the shaded Pole is on one side or the other. We convert 'skeleton motors' like this all the time in the Refrigeration world. However, they are built to select a direction. But shouldn't be do-able with simply changing the wiring.

    I'll wait for a flurry of denial on this matter. Because it's possible these fans are built different...
    "Keep the magic alive!" He said.


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    Super Moderator Adrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ric View Post
    Wade, have you ever tried switch the wires to see if there is a direction change?

    I can't be absolutely certain, but these fan motors are a 'shaded pole' motor I believe, and will run in the same direction regardless of wiring. DC circuit loads look for 12 volt source and a load in between, then a solid ground.

    In order to change direction, you'd have to turn the armature around in the stator. Not sure if it's possible in the Boss Hoss fans.

    You can actually buy a sucker fan motor, or a blower fan motor - but the shaded Pole is on one side or the other. We convert 'skeleton motors' like this all the time in the Refrigeration world. However, they are built to select a direction. But shouldn't be do-able with simply changing the wiring.

    I'll wait for a flurry of denial on this matter. Because it's possible these fans are built different...
    All Boss Hoss factory fans will run either way,

    Adrian




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    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    You can change the rotation by simply switching the wiring .
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Ric..Jack is right...will run a different direction just by the wiring change.

    I know because a while back..maybe even the Yaho Group... there were schematics on how to wire the fan to run the oppossite direction in stop and go traffic so that it was not as hot on the driver. I did a bike that way but the bike took forever to cool so I tossed the wiring and went back to the normal way.
    Barry aka CanuckHoss



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    Good to know. If my fan motor every fails... I'll take it apart to see how it's wound to understand the techical construction of it. I work on electric motors every day, and see 110, 208/240, 375, 460, and 575 Volt A/C motors easily reversible... and three Phase motors are easily understood.

    Never knew that a DC motor could be reversible.

    Go figure!

    Hey, Barry... if you finally wind up with a dead fan motor... let me take it apart. I'll come up with a technical expaination on how it's wound and wired internally. Just for sheets n' giggles.
    "Keep the magic alive!" He said.


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    Quote Originally Posted by CanuckHoss View Post
    Ric..Jack is right...will run a different direction just by the wiring change.

    I know because a while back..maybe even the Yaho Group... there were schematics on how to wire the fan to run the oppossite direction in stop and go traffic so that it was not as hot on the driver. I did a bike that way but the bike took forever to cool so I tossed the wiring and went back to the normal way.
    I'm facinated by the wire switcherroo bit on reversing the rotation of the motor. However, I CAN explain the reason why a 'switched' rotation in the motor not cooling the rad as much. The fan blade has a proper shape to move air in an intended direction. Even though they are flat blades... they are built a little like an air plane prop. Running them in reverse changes it's pitch and how it scoops air going 'the wrong' way. You'll likely get about 1/3 of the CFM from this prop fan blade, than if it was rotating in the correct direction.

    One way to solve the problem of blowing heat away from the driver would be to have a second fan on the back of the radiator... but you'd have to remember to shut it off (via a relay) when you switch to the normal fan up front. Otherwise, the air passing through the radiator onto the rear fan blowing out would cause static air pressure to shoot through the roof, and you'd likely over Amp the motor, and burn it out about 25 miles down the highway.

    I didn't know about the fan motors we use on our bikes. But I do know fan laws and their physics... Hey, here in Canada... we welcome the heat coming off the normal fan on the front of the rads! It's flippin' cold on some rides!
    "Keep the magic alive!" He said.


  27. #25
    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ric View Post
    I'm facinated by the wire switcherroo bit on reversing the rotation of the motor. However, I CAN explain the reason why a 'switched' rotation in the motor not cooling the rad as much. The fan blade has a proper shape to move air in an intended direction. Even though they are flat blades... they are built a little like an air plane prop. Running them in reverse changes it's pitch and how it scoops air going 'the wrong' way. You'll likely get about 1/3 of the CFM from this prop fan blade, than if it was rotating in the correct direction.

    One way to solve the problem of blowing heat away from the driver would be to have a second fan on the back of the radiator... but you'd have to remember to shut it off (via a relay) when you switch to the normal fan up front. Otherwise, the air passing through the radiator onto the rear fan blowing out would cause static air pressure to shoot through the roof, and you'd likely over Amp the motor, and burn it out about 25 miles down the highway.

    I didn't know about the fan motors we use on our bikes. But I do know fan laws and their physics... Hey, here in Canada... we welcome the heat coming off the normal fan on the front of the rads! It's flippin' cold on some rides!
    I wish there was room to install an electric fan or better yet a belt driven fan behind the radiator where it should be . Unfortunately there isn't . If you moved the radiator out enough to do this it would be too close to the front tire . However it could be done with a raked front end .
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

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    Quote Originally Posted by HogV8 View Post
    If you moved the radiator out enough to do this it would be too close to the front tire . However it could be done with a raked front end .
    Jack...you were reading my mind...a Kewl Metal front end and then move the fan behind the rad where it belongs.. we will clean the Hoss looks up eventually...
    Barry aka CanuckHoss



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