2001 Boss Hoss ZZ4 350 Trike Parts List: Mindless Philosopher's Ride - Page 7
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Thread: 2001 Boss Hoss ZZ4 350 Trike Parts List: Mindless Philosopher's Ride

  1. #181
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Cylinder Head Bolts Re-Tightened

    Cylinder head bolts were re-tightened (65 ft-lbs/88 nm torque per original GM 5.7L/350/ZZ4 spec.) at 30,472 miles.

    Tools used:
    - 5/32" Allen key/wrench (to remove valve covers)
    - Flat head screwdriver (to loosen hose clamps/aid in removing valve covers)
    - Manual (not pneumatic/powered) ft-lbs. torque wrench (do not confuse with inch-lbs torque wrench if you own both)
    - 1/2" drive to 3/8" ratchet drive reducer/adapter
    - 3/8" drive ratchet extension
    - 1/2" deep socket
    - 1/2" shallow socket
    - 1/2" angled box-end wrench
    - Spark plug socket

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  3. #182
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Only 7,000 Miles After 20 Months of Ownership

    I was honestly hoping I'd have put 30,000 or more miles on this thing by now. 7,000 in 20 months is pretty sad. @#$% thing won't stop breaking. It's endless.

    The only other vehicle I've ever owned that was this unreliable was a 1979 Ford Courier pickup truck.

    On the bright side, the monthly payments will end in December (private seller). It will be good to at least be out from under that.

  4. #183
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default

    I'm not here to whine or to toot my own horn. Not sure if I ever come across that way. I just hope other V8 bike/trike owners out there can glean something useful from all my rattling on. I post a bunch, but that's only because I'm learning a bunch. I've never owned a "ride" of any kind before, only "cages." Irritating and mighty fun experience all rolled up into one. Well worth it. I hope some of you out there are learning from my experiences. I don't mind being the Guinea Pig, as long as it helps someone else.

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  6. #184
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default On the Road Again

    Throttle cable is replaced. Feels a lot different than before (it has some idle slack in it now; it didn't before), but every bit as responsive. It just takes a little bit of an extra twist. I'm gonna have to re-learn it to an extent, but at least now I can get back to putting miles behind me.

  7. #185
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default TH350 Transmission to Differential Coupler

    Here are photo's of the coupler between the rear differential housing and the TH350 transmission.

    I had been entertaining the idea of eventually swapping the TH350 for a 700R4 so I could have an overdrive gear for the freeway, but considering a 700R4 is about 4 inches longer, this is obviously not going to happen, not without a great deal of expense, anyway.
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  8. #186
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Body Tilt Hinges

    Here are old and new pic's of my body tilt hinges. The first two are from when they cracked in half from age and fatigue about a year ago. It happened to the hinges on the left and right sides of the trike. They were welded back together with an additional piece of steel as reinforcement. The hollow metal roll pins were replaced with solid clevis pins. The bolts that hold them to the body kept working their way out even with split lock washers, so I installed nylon lock washers on the back sides instead.
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  9. #187
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    Smile thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by The Mindless Philosopher View Post
    Here are old and new pic's of my body tilt hinges. The first two are from when they cracked in half from age and fatigue about a year ago. It happened to the hinges on the left and right sides of the trike. They were welded back together with an additional piece of steel as reinforcement. The hollow metal roll pins were replaced with solid clevis pins. The bolts that hold them to the body kept working their way out even with split lock washers, so I installed nylon lock washers on the back sides instead.
    Hello Brent, I got your new pictures of the hinges , I see what you did, great job on fixing the old hinges, I have a pretty good idea of whats going on now that i saw the old and new, I sure do appreciate all your time and help, If i can help you in any way ,just give me a shout..Have a great week end and stay cool lol

  10. #188
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default On the Home Stretch

    Now that I have replaced and/or repaired nearly every external working component, averaging one breakdown for every two to four weeks of road time, putting the Hoss out of commission for anywhere from one week to three months per breakdown, I am finally rounding the "home stretch." This thing will be paid off in December. If I encounter another breakdown before then, I might have to consider throwing in the towel and seeking owner #9. For now, all is well. Come on baby, only three more months! Make daddy proud!

  11. #189
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default New Problem: Hanging High Idle

    The idle sticks at around 1,500 RPM now instead of settling down at 800 like it's supposed to. I have a separate thread opened in the technical forum. I'll post an update here after it is resolved. I will also post the resolution on the technical thread. I just hope it's a quick fix.

    Otherwise, I've pretty much decided I will sell this thing. Regardless of all the effort and the cash I've sunk into it, it just still gives me way too many problems. One ride-stopping repair every 500 to 2,000 miles is for the birds.

  12. #190
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Hanging High Idle Resolved, Confirmed

    Spark plug #7 was loose. It needed at least a turn and a half. I don't know how a steel plug in an aluminum head worked its way that loose, but that's how it was. I re-torqued to 20 ft-lbs. and now all is well. The Hoss idles at 800 RPM as it should, regardless of cold or hot riding, in any traffic.
    Last edited by The Mindless Philosopher; 10-10-2016 at 02:31 AM.

  13. #191
    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Mindless Philosopher View Post
    Spark plug #7 was loose. It needed at least a turn and a half. I don't know how a steel plug in an iron head worked its way that loose, but that's how it was. I re-torqued to 20 ft-lbs. and now all is well. The Hoss idles at 800 RPM as it should, regardless of cold or hot riding, in any traffic.
    Not a iron head is it ?
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

  14. #192
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HogV8 View Post
    Not a iron head is it ?
    Nope. Iron block, but aluminum L94 heads.

    I just noticed the error and corrected my last update. The heads are definitely aluminum.

  15. #193
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default For Future Reference, if I Ever Extend the Frame for a 700R4...

    Ideas for extending the trike's frame (2001 Boss Hoss) to make room for mounting a 700R4 overdrive transmission in place of the existing TH350...


    Idea #1: figure out a way to extend the internal slugs inside the top-side frame tubes at the splice/separation points, despite the angle of the tubes. The bottom tubes would be easy.

    Idea #2 (thank you for the suggestion, Paul H): drill one hole in each of the former swing arm mounting plates. The holes' centers should be located precisely 1-3/4" from the centers of, and behind, the existing bolt holes (3/4" dia). Next, fabricate a plate for relocating the bolts on the top side of the rear frame, to make up for the offset on the swing arm plates.

    Will post photo's of the areas in question as soon as my camera charges up.

    Hoping I'll have a fuel saving 4 speed installed by this time next year.


    The first four photo's are of the forward frame separation points (factory Boss Hoss frame splices). The last eight photo's are of the rear frame separation points (former swing arm and shock locations).
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    Last edited by The Mindless Philosopher; 10-16-2016 at 03:34 PM. Reason: Added Photo's

  16. #194
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    Default Hole in Radiator

    Two or three weeks ago something bounced up off the road and got tossed by the engine pulley. It tore a gash in the backside of the radiator and caused at least one leak. I'm gonna have to pull the radiator off and see if it can be repaired.

  17. #195
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    Default Busted Radiator Pic's

    The radiator is off the Hoss. Here are some pic's of the backside. It's upside-down in these photo's.
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  18. #196
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    Default Radiator Fixed

    The holes have been repaired and the radiator re-installed. Re-installation was nowhere near the booger I expected, especially since now I know the trick to those crazy Spectra Racing Magna Kool hose sleeves. No-brainer for near anyone else I'm sure, but I over-think EVERYTHING and turn "space cadet" too easily. Anyhow, it's sealed up great, the coolant flows as it should, and the operating temperatures are within the expected range. All's well! ...Until NEXT time...

  19. #197
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    Default CPP Classics JK613B 45PSI Rear Brake Light Pressure Switch

    I've installed a CPP Classics JK613B low pressure 45 PSI rear Brake Light Pressure Switch to replace the 90 PSI NAPA unit I normally run. Those things never seem to last more than a year, if that long. I figured the line pressure from a non-vacuum assisted 5/8" bore master cylinder (foot brake, drums, automotive setup on a trike) might be the culprit.

    I have been informed by a member here in another thread, that the automotive switches can be sensitive to DOT5 fluid, as they are intended for DOT3. I'll keep an eye on things and will update this thread at a later date if I have to swap to a Harley-Davidson pressure switch.



  20. #198
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    Default Mud Flaps and Anti-Slip Strips Installed

    I tilted the body and bolted mud flaps to the bottom rear of the rear storage bin tonight. Took a few hours because the space was cramped and a pain to measure and drill. At least now I won't sandblast people behind me when we ride staggered.

    I also added some self-adhesive anti-slip strips to the chrome plates on the body, where the rear passenger rests her feet. I put a few on the rear seat too, to help keep her bum planted in the turns.

    I'll post pic's some other time. Too tired for it right now. My back's breaking from being hunched over all night.

  21. #199
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Recent Electrical Scare

    A week or so ago I thought the Hoss had burned up another continuous duty solenoid. I have had to replace one about every 9 months to a year, it seems.

    The Hoss had begun displaying symptoms that were common the each time the previous solenoids had burned out:
    - Instrument cluster, lights, transmission cooler fan, and fuel pump had come on as usual when ignition key was turned
    - Handlebar button turned to "Run" position
    - Throttle twisted a few times to get fuel into the carburetor
    - Start button depressed; Engine starts to "roll over"
    - Everything suddenly shuts down/goes dark; No power, nothing
    - Repeat with same results
    - Third try, no response at all
    - A few hours later, the whole cycle is repeated as if nothing had happened; All seemed well until the start button was depressed again
    - Everything went dark again, but stayed dark this time

    In summary: intermittent power

    A hand-held voltmeter revealed 3 volts between the battery terminals, and also 3 volts along the ignition path, dropping to 0 volts when the key was turned. An inspection of the wires revealed the positive (+) battery terminal had vibrated loose at some point. I recharged the battery overnight, and now all is well. Glad I have a $200 Optimo Red in there!

    Lesson learned: include battery cables in the routine "pre-flight" inspection. I'm glad I didn't spend big bucks on any parts, except for a spare continuous duty solenoid that I'm sure I will eventually need anyway.

  22. #200
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Irritating Little Repairs: A Way of Life...

    Slung another alternator belt on the freeway yesterday. Impossible to keep this pig happy. At least it lasted a handful of months longer than the rest.

    Good ole spark plug #7 worked its way loose again and tried to kill me by stalling in 3 lanes of moderate traffic. Took about a half hour to figure out what was wrong, after I had drifted to the center turn lane and had received a police vehicle blockade. Glad I discovered it.

    Less serious issue is coolant leaking from the top-side engine mount studs...AGAIN...

    Ole girl specializes in shaking herself apart. I can see the top engine mounts, alternator belt, and good ole park plug #7 are going to be endless pains in me caboose...

  23. #201
    Veteran Member HogV8's Avatar
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    The alternator brackets on these bikes is notorious for breaking causing the the belt to be misaligned and come off . Just a thought . Top motor mount bolts are also notorious for leaking . Could need to be removed and resilicone seal the blots .
    Jack ......2000 Boss Hoss 350/400 HP

    RIDE IT LIKE YOU KNOW HOW TO FIX IT

  24. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by HogV8 View Post
    The alternator brackets on these bikes is notorious for breaking causing the the belt to be misaligned and come off . Just a thought . Top motor mount bolts are also notorious for leaking . Could need to be removed and resilicone seal the blots .
    Yep. I do regular cleaning and spot checks, and remove the alternator bracket now and then for a full inspection. So far so good.

    Those top engine mount studs are an endless source of irritation. I need to get around to putting silicone sealer on them one of these days. I've been wrapped up in other things and procrastinating.

    Meanwhile, I have a mild front main seal leak. Oil cakes up on the front of the pan but it doesn't drip. I'm too lazy to want to remove the headers or split the frame to replace it right now. These nit-picky little repairs are wearing me out. When I do finally get around to it, I'll probably install a chrome steel pan. Sure, it will get beat up, dirty, and sand blasted by the elements, but I just really do not like this black one that's on it.

  25. #203
    Veteran Member The Mindless Philosopher's Avatar
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    Default Always Something... Ha!

    The third brake light crapped out on me. LED. Not a show stopper, as the combination tail/brake lights in the trike's '57 Chevy fins still do the trick. The size of the frame is pretty generic, so finding a suitable replacement frame with a third brake light and clear license plate illuminator shouldn't be a problem. Plenty to be had on eBay for a decent price.

    Meanwhile, I reckon I'll use this opportunity for a little down time, so I can re-seat and re-seal the leaking upper engine mount studs in the intake manifold. The weather is perfect for it. I won't roast in the garage.

  26. #204
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    Default New Rear Brake Master Cylinder

    I installed an aftermarket Kelsey-Hayes style (Harley-Davidson) 3/4" bore rear brake master cylinder, to replace the faulty Boss Hoss unit that has been repaired and rebuilt one too many times. It has held up nicely for three days, but now I have another problem to tend, not brake related.

  27. #205
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    Default Radiator Has Sprung New Leaks

    I cannot help but wonder whether my radiator was never properly flushed in 16 years and now it is rotting from the inside out? Sure, it is aluminum, but corrosion does build up. There was physical damage a few months ago and I had that repaired and pressure tested at a professional radiator shop. Was a proper flush part of the pressure test? Who knows? If so, then too little, too late? Maybe.

    Now this. I swear this trike is cursed or something. There must be a valid reason I am owner #8 of this thing, and I think I have pretty damn solid idea why...

    Anyway...

    With family medical problems, I am too far in over my head to make any move toward repairs or replacement. My three-wheeled therapy will just have to remain garaged until further notice. There's nothing new under the sun.

  28. #206
    Senior Member second chance's Avatar
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    Default Do you have the part number

    Quote Originally Posted by The Mindless Philosopher View Post
    I've added a front inline banjo bolt/brake light switch. Works perfectly every time! No more wondering if my brake lights won't shut off!

    I have also added a seat back/rest (thank you Paul H)! It tilts backward at just the right angle. The seat design puts the back rest up a little high, right where I need it: mid back, at the shoulder blades! Riding is a luxury now!

    It's great to be back on the road!




    Do you still have the pats numbers and maybe some pictures on how this is done. thanks
    for some there's therapy, for the rest of us there's motorcycles

  29. #207
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    Default

    If you're referring to the hand brake master cylinder banjo bolt, I used:

    - 1 ea. Goodridge PBL775-44CH Harley Brake Light Banjo Bolt w/Pressure Switch 7/16-24

    Some of them are 3/8-24 (it depends on what hand controls you have). Many are advertised as 10mm and 12mm. My foot brake banjo bolt (Kelsey-Hayes style) is 10mm but it does not have a light switch. My foot brake light switch is further downstream.

    As for the hnd brake banjo bolt/light switch, the installation is easy but it requires disassembly of the collar around the throttle grip. This serves two purposes:
    (1) To remove the spring-loaded mehanical brake light switch
    (2) To run the banjo bolt pressure switch wiring into the collar/switch housing through the hole left by the spring-loaded switch
    The wiring of the pressure switch connects directly to the existing spring-loaded switch terminals. You might need to re-tip them though. You'll see what I mean once you pluck into it.




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